Towards Valencia

Thursday 16th November 2017

As much as we enjoyed staying at Vilanova Park, except maybe at the weekends when the locals are a little on the loud side, it was time to move south in search for more sunshine.

We had chosen to move down towards Valencia and had chosen a site about 40km north of the city. A quick scan of the Camping Card book introduced us to Camping Monmar, a €17 per night site with the added bonus that if we stayed 10 nights we only have to pay for 8.

The route was almost entirely on the AP-7 toll road. It cost us about €30 in tolls, but was stress free towing for the 258km route. We could have saved a few euros by moving over to the often running parallel A-7, but the amount of trucks on that road made me think the tolls were worth paying.

I’m still really impressed with the way the Kuga tows. Usually set the adaptive cruise at an indicated 94kph and the car averages 26 to 28 mpg.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 258 Cumulative: 5,068

We were met on arrival by Tomás, who invited us to choose from a number of available pitches. All were a little on the snug size for our van, awning, car combination but we managed to get comfortable with a number of motor mover manoeuvres.

The facilities are very clean with ample hot water. There is a bar and café/restaurant, and a swimming pool which unfortunately has been closed for maintenance. The local town is about a mile away, with supermarkets, bars, and an excellent bakery.

The beach is about 300yds away. The surrounding area is not the most picturesque we have seen on our travels but there are many things to visit relatively nearby. A train to Valencia costs €8.70 return, a bargain.

Tomás provided us with a map and took the time to mark out many of the places nearby that he recommended we visit. We intend to stay here for at least 10 nights, and we will receive our first visitor of the trip, Kims’ sister Carol is flying out on Monday.

Scammed In Barcelona

Tuesday 14th November 2017

Disappointed that we had barely scratched the surface of the things we wanted to visit in Barcelona last week, we rose earlier than usual and boarded the handy bus just outside the gate to visit the city again. Kim had researched the Metro system and knew exactly which stations to use to visit our first attraction of the day, Tibidabo, a 512 metre ‘mountain’ which affords excellent views over the city and the Mediterranean Sea. There is a Blue Tram & a funicular railway that takes you up to the summit, where stands the magnificent Sagret Cor church, and a funfair.

The Torre de Collserola, a communication tower designed by Sir Norman Foster is also located on the mountain.

Unfortunately the Blue Tram was out of service on the day of our visit. We decided to walk the decidedly uphill 650 metres to the funicular station. This, in hindsight, is where our day took a  turn for the worse.

As we approached the funicular station, walking on the shady side of the road, we both got sprayed with a foul smelling liquid down our backs. Bloody birds!!, we thought.

 

As we were inspecting the mess down each others backs, a man and a women, with a very large pack of baby wipes, approached and commenced to help us clean up the mess. Very handy & helpful we thought. Totally out of character, Kim put down her bag on the floor. The couple were pointing out to me where Kim had this stuff in her hair, and I continued to clean. We thanked them for their kindness and they walked away, back down the hill.

Twenty minutes later, after we had taken the funicular to the summit, Kim discovers that the €50 note that was in her purse had gone. Upshot is, these kind people sprayed us with god knows what, robbed us, and we thanked them for doing it! Scum.

Why didn’t we notice them lurking in the shadows? Why didn’t I pick up on the fact she had baby wipes in abundance, but no baby? Why did Kim put down her bag, she never puts down her bag? Why are we so bloody trusting? 🙁

We have been told we were lucky, most people lose their cards, driving license, passports etc., we were only deprived of cash.

After discovering the loss, we continued to look around for a while, but we were both acutely aware that we smelt not very pleasant and were extremely distraught about what had happened and with our own stupidity for allowing it.

We returned to the campground to shower and wash our clothing.

A little later we were approached by our on-site neighbour asking if we would like to join him and another nearby camper for a bottle of wine later that evening. Not being ones to turn down wine, we gratefully accepted 🙂

We had a wonderful evening with Lutz, from Germany, & Ed, from Holland. The chatting went on for some hours and raised our spirits again. We also managed to consume 4 bottles of red wine, & a bottle on Limoncello between us!! Thank you gentlemen, we hope to meet again on the road.

Lutz was flying back home the next morning. I hope his head was feeling better than mine.

Sitges

Monday 13th November 2017

Today we made a visit to the coastal town of Sitges. Sheltered by the Garraf Mountains, it has a warm micro-climate and was only a short drive from our hub.

We managed to find Parking Zone Azul opposite the Hotel Estela, which was east of the port and free at this time of the year. In the sea below us were a few surfers making the most of the waves. (In wet suits 😉 )

Our journey into town took us through the Port de Sitges, Aiguadolç. A very attractive area with numerous restaurants and plenty of yachts, moored up. It’s impossible not to notice the sound of rigging chiming against the masts. You either love it or hate it!

We left the port and headed towards Sitges, taking a man-made coastal path with sea view running its length.

Down below us was the Platja des Balmains; a  sheltered sandy beach in a small bay, which we later discovered was quite popular as a ‘clothing optional beach’.

On the day we passed by there were a few paddler boarders surfing the waves and yes, one man staring out to sea, in the altogether 🙂 whatever floats your boat I guess.

Sitges has 17 beaches (platjas in Catalan) to suit all tastes, but not all in the main part of the town.

After passing a rather imposing church, Ermita de Sant Sebastià, we reached the Sant Sebastia beach, with its promenade and cafes.

Continuing west we reached Sitges’ Old Town. The narrow cobbled streets and alleyways were hilly but gave us an opportunity to look at some fabulous architecture. The Old Town is not particularly big but its position affords views across the sea and the rest of the town.

Here in the Old Town/Old Quarter the Marciel Museum and Cau Ferrat Museum showcase Catalan and other Spanish art.

From here we made our way down to the popular sandy beach of Platja de la Ribera  and wandered along the wide promenade (paseo), with numerous restaurants and hotels on our right hand side for a while.

It is possible to continue further along the seafront promenade  of 2.5 km, following the Paseo Marítimo and on to Terramar Gardens where you can admire the splendid renovated mansion houses that now sell or rent for a mint!

As you can tell, we didn’t continue any further, but made our way back through some narrow streets up to the main shopping district.

We enjoyed a piña pastry and a café solo at a pavement patissiere before heading back to our car.

For those of you that don’t know Ray, he doesn’t much enjoy shopping but there are a number of big chain stores and cute boutiques concentrated in the main shopping area of Carrer Sant Francesc, the shopping street north of the Cap de la Villa.

There are four main shopping streets in Sitges: Carrer Sant Francesc, Carrer Parellades, Carrer Major and Carrer Jesus. The four streets end together in one point, where the Cap de la Villa is located.

Remember in Spain, shops usually open from 10 am until 2 pm and then from 5 pm until 8/9 pm, so as not to be disappointed.

As we approached the port, the sun was sinking below the horizon and the temperature was beginning to drop. A good time to get back to the car and head for home.

Calafell Beach

Sunday 12th November 2017

The campsite had suddenly become very busy and noisy, with many Spanish families turning up late Friday night for the weekend.

On Saturday the weather had not lived up to expectations and been overcast all day, but today the sun was shining and the beach beckoned. Ray was even threatening to take a dip in the Med!

We drove to Cunit and cycled along the promenade as we had done previously. Today it was much busier than normal, with many people also enjoying the weather and the weekend.

Nevertheless, we still felt terribly under-dressed compared to the locals, who were sporting coats, scarves, hats and gloves!

On reaching Calafell beach, the restaurants and bars along the promenade were packed with customers and it was great to see so many people enjoying Al fresco dining.

We left the crowds behind and headed towards the quieter end of the promenade, where the low rise apartment blocks were mainly empty at this time of year.

Calafell has 3 Blue Flag beaches and all were deserted bar one or two fishermen or the occasional walker.

We parked our bikes beside a lonely palm and headed towards the sea. We both took a paddle but only Ray had his swimming gear to hand. Would he brave it?

Yes he would. Yes he did, eventually. Apparently it wasn’t that bad, once you had committed yourself 🙂

Back on our bikes we headed for home. By now the promenade was quiet and most people had gone.  Once again we had the good fortune to be able to enjoy our last moments on the Costa Dorada in peace and quiet.

Barcelona

Thursday 9th November 2017

Our plan today was to visit one of our favourite cities; Barcelona. We were acutely aware of recent events in the city, who wouldn’t be? Nevertheless, since being in Catalonia, nothing had given us cause to be concerned.

On our trips to major cities, we frequently chose the train to take the strain but we had heard about disruptions and cancellations on the trains in and out of Barcelona, so thought it wise to opt for another mode of transport.

Luckily for us, the Mon Bus runs from our campsite, Vilanova Park, to Barcelona every half hour. What could be more simple!

In hindsight we should have done our homework and caught a much earlier bus. There is just way too much to see and do in Barcelona and we hadn’t allowed ourselves anywhere near enough time to enjoy it all, as we were to discover.

10.15 am and the bus departed for the city, on time. It was a comfy ride, stopping at Vilanova i la Geltrú and arrived in Plaςa d’Espanya, Barcelona, promptly at 11.20 am.

Ray made sure to drop a pin on Google maps to ensure we were able to find our way back to the bus stop! Always helpful 🙂

This was an area of the city we had not visited before and there was plenty to explore. We navigated our way around the busy roundabout in the centre of the Plaça d’Espanya. In the middle stands the monumental fountain, which marks the avenue leading to the grounds of the 1929 International Exhibition.

We headed towards the imposing sight of Las Arenas de Barcelona and the glass elevator, costing €1 each, which takes you to the rooftop viewing platform. A gimmick but what the heck!

The viewpoint can also be reached by a series of escalators in the shopping plaza, for no charge.

The circular rooftop enables you to enjoy panoramic views of the Plaça, including the Parc de Joan Miró, with it’s Woman and Bird Sculpture. (Unfortunately we didn’t get a photo of the sculpture to the left, only the park).

On our list of things to do was to revisit the Sagrada Família. How was the building work coming on? Would it be finished?

Off we set along the Gran via de les Corts Catalans, more commonly referred to as the Gran Via, one of Barcelona’s major avenues.

We passed Casa Golferichs on the Gran Via. Now a cultural and civic centre.

Luckily we did not have to walk the Gran Vias entire length, over 8 miles. Just the hour or so! It was a very busy road but a pleasant walk.

Barcelona Metro Guide: tickets can be purchased for the metro, bus or tram, or all 3 ( T10). It’s worth checking out the options available, depending on how long you are visiting Barcelona.

On reaching Plaça de Tetuan, we headed north east towards the iconic church Sagrada Família, another World Heritage site.

Our intention was not to go into the church or the towers, as we had already experienced this a few years ago and not surprisingly, it is still not finished 🙂 Watch this space in 2026, as this is the year the Basilica is reputed to be finally completed!

If you are thinking of visiting it is definitely worth purchasing tickets on line, to save time, as even in November it was incredibly busy.

Whilst we were snapping away taking photos, we happened to notice the Barcelona City Bus Tour. (Green route, east, stop number 12). We just wished we had noticed the bus stop on the Orange route when we first arrived at Plaça d’Espanya, as we could have made the most of a day ticket. (Note to self for future reference).

The bright red double-decker open-top Barcelona buses offer 2 routes. West route – Orange route or East route – Green route. Each taking approximately 2 hours. (So you can imagine our dilemma).

We paid the daily rate of €29 each, which would have been well worth it, if we had started our tour earlier in the day. Nevertheless the hop on hop off service was excellent and we would highly recommend it. Just make sure you leave plenty of time to take in all the attractions that Barcelona has to offer.

First stop for us was  number 13 and Park Güell. But a word of caution. Be prepared for a 10+ minute walk up some steep paths to the park, as well as plenty of walking around the park too.

We went with the self-guided tour, including a ticket for the monumental zone, after which we were free to access the rest of the park for no charge.

We discovered that you can enjoy the majority of the park for free and even get to see some of the monumental zone if you approach from the south side.

Even on a November day the place was bustling with tourists, who like us wanted to admire the work of Antoni Gaudí, so be prepared.

Once you leave the monumental zone there is no re-entry, so make the most of your time there.

The Hypostyle is made up of 86  columns; the outer most ones  slope inwards. It’s worth reading up on this construction and how it was used to collect rainwater.

On passing through an original iron gate, we reached the gardens of the former farmhouse, the Casa Larrard and a portico backing onto the retaining wall of the upper roadway. It is made from  rough stone and resembles a huge wave.

Next we headed to the Plaça de la Natura, (Nature Square or originally The Greek Theatre).

It  was undergoing some major improvement work, but we were still able to take in the views over Barcelona and the undulating bench seating decorated with tile-shard mosaic,  planned by Josep M. Jujol.

The rest of our visit continued through the remainder of the park, which was just as spectacular.

Throughout the park we came across a number of musicians performing in these wonderful structures, as the acoustics were fantastic.

A combination of viaducts, paths, steps and roadways connect the many areas of the park and allow you to explore the trees and Mediterranean plants.

Within the area of the park called the Austria Garden are two houses which were built while Park Güell was a residential estate.

Back on the Barcelona hop on hop off bus, we continued on the green route passing the Rotunda and the stop for Tribidabo and the funicular railway.

By now the weather had turned incredibly chilly and we reverted to sitting downstairs under cover, which somewhat limited our view of the attractions along the route.

Heading towards the centre of the city we passed the UNESCO Casa Milà or La Pedrera and Casa Batlló, both works of art by Gaudí.

At stop 16 on the green route we hopped off the bus and onto the orange route, stop 19 to enable us to get back to Plaça d’Espanya our starting point.

Cold and hungry we made our way to the rooftop of Las Arenas and into La Lola. Tapas, paella and a fruity white Verdejo, all served by polite and cheerful waiters, keen to practise their English skills. Top marks Nur 🙂

Feeling refreshed and a lot warmer, we made the short distance to our bus stop and didn’t have to wait long for our bus to arrive, on time, to take us back to camp.

We will be back to savour more of Catalonia’s vibrant city and the many cultural attractions and breathtaking architecture. Think it’s going to take more than one more visit though.