Category Archives: Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland

The Ards Peninsula, County Down

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Monday 18th September 2017

Jennie and Dennis had offered to take us on a mini tour of Strangford Lough today, which we had gratefully accepted.

First on the agenda for the day was an ‘Ulster Fry’ at the local flying club. (Apparently, this has to be done). The Cloud 9 Restaurant did not disappoint. The food was delicious with service to match and the views across the airfield to Scrabo Tower were lovely, as was the weather again. We were blessed!

We set off towards Mount Stewart on the east side of the Lough, which is now owned by The National Trust. It has undergone a 3 year long restoration project and we had definitely chosen the perfect time to visit.

Mount Stewart

We had a guided tour around the house which was so interesting and informative. Each room was a feast for the eye and because it is still used as a family residence it felt so warm and welcoming.

Entrance Hall

This photograph shows the latest renovation unveiled this year, the central hall floor. The modern tiles were lifted to reveal the original sandstone floor, dating back to 1840.

Portrait Of Hambletonian Over Ornate Staircase

This beautiful staircase was designed by George Dance and the superb painting by George Stubbs, depicts Hambletonian, a celebrated race horse, after winning a race at Newmarket racecourse in 1799. It is just one of many pieces of artwork which are on show throughout the house.

After the hour long tour we took a stroll through part of the gardens. We would certainly need to spend a lot more time next time we visit, exploring the many varied and beautifully tended gardens. The micro climate of the area allows the growth and cultivation of many plant species, not local to the area.

Mount Stewart Gardens

Our tour continued around the Lough, taking in Greyabbey on the Ards Peninsula, before heading towards Ballywater on the coast of the Irish Sea, with views over to the Isle of Man. We travelled along the coast to the seaside town of Donaghadee, to enjoy,what Dennis refers to, as the best ice-cream in the world. (It was rather tasty). Donaghadee is also home to Grace Neill’s pub, reputedly build in 1611, making it the oldest in Ireland. Onwards to Bangor, a seaside town on the southern side of Belfast Lough, and home of the Bangor Bell. A 4 metre high sculpture, close to Bangor Abbey.

The final leg of our journey took us full circle back to Newtownards, where we  said goodbye to our hosts, until we would meet again later for dinner.

Northern Ireland

Sunny Sunday

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Sunday 17th September 2017

We woke to the sight of a beautiful sunny Sunday morning! Typical, as we were leaving Portrush today to travel to Belfast.

Portrush

Nevertheless, we took a pre-departure stroll along the strand. It was glorious. The tide was out, people were walking their dogs and children were already making the most of the day, digging in the sand. We walked along the entire stretch of sand, towards the harbour and Portrush lifeboat station.  Time to blow the cobwebs away and enjoy some sea air. Fishermen were preparing their bait and setting out in a variety of small boats, like us, making the most of the delightful conditions.

Portrush Harbour

The bay at Portrush is sheltered and it was possible to see right around the coast back towards the coast of Londonderry, as the visibility was so good.

Back at the site we finished the final preparations for the next leg of our journey and pondered why, every day couldn’t be like today, weather wise? Guess the Emerald Isle wouldn’t be so green if that were the case.

17.09.2017 Route

Towing Kilometres – Today: 106 – Cumulative: 1,992

We set off on A29, taking the ring road around Coleraine and onto A26, before joining M2 towards Antrim, then Belfast. We discovered that there is only one service station on M2 at the present time, and not on the south bound carriageway. So, in need of sustenance and the fact we were not too far from our destination, but could not check in until 2 pm, we came off M2 and headed back north to reach Templepatrick services. (Northern Ireland’s first motorway service area). It was particularly busy today, as many of Belfast’s half marathon competitors had chosen it to reward themselves with a cappuccino and some fast food! Who could blame them, they probably deserved it!

Back on the road and we were fast approaching Belfast City and the Sat Nav was behaving itself for a change. We passed Belfast Docks, home of the Titanic Belfast Experience and it wasn’t difficult to miss the Harland & Wolff twin shipbuilding gantry cranes, Samson and Goliath, as they are affectionately known, in their bright yellow livery.

We skirted around the north of the city, and were pleased we were not entering the city centre, as the traffic was pretty congested on the slip road. The M3 merged into the Sydenham By-Pass and as we passed George Best Belfast City Airport on our left, the road took a sharp detour south on to A55 and eventually to our destination, Dundonald Touring Caravan Park. The site was situated behind a busy main road, so we were expecting some traffic noise. But if we got bored there was plenty of entertainment within walking distance. An Omniplex, an International Ice Bowl and David Lloyd’s tennis club. There was even Pirates Adventure Golf!

A quick call to our brother in laws parents, Dennis and Jennie, who live just a few miles away in Newtownards to say we had arrived and our evening meal was sorted. Irish hospitality – can always be relied on.

We made our way over to Newtownards around 4 pm and it was great to catch up and finally get to see where Dennis and Jennie have lived their entire married life (55 years). Their house is situated high up, with brilliant views, not only over the town, but in the distance to Scrabo Tower and Strangford Lough.

Dennis drove us to Scrabo Country Park, at the top of Scrabo Hill to take a look at this noted landmark and enjoy the views over Strangford Lough and the surrounding countryside. Apart from the rather steep walk up to the tower, which seems to have become a familiar feature of our experiences, we were blown away, nearly literally, by what we saw.

The Scrabo Tower

Back at Jennie and Dennis’s we enjoyed some delicious home made Irish stew and apple pie, before heading back home.

Northern Ireland

Glenariff Forest Park

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Saturday 16th September 2017

If you enjoy walking and getting away from it all, there are nine glens along the Antrim coast road, with woods, waterfalls, riverside paths, viewpoints and forest parks to enjoy. Our choice was Glenariff Forest Park (the fertile glen), as it boasted a unique waterfall walkway.

We set off from Ballintoy on the coastal route and hadn’t gone far when we spotted a viewing point, Portaneevey. We pulled into the car park and were rewarded with a great view back to Carrick-a-Rede bridge, Rathlin Island and in the  far distance, Mull of Kintyre.

We now had a choice, continue on the main coastal A2 route, or divert onto the Torr Scenic Route and follow the coast to Cushendun. We took the scenic route but knowing what we know now, I would definitely recommend that you think seriously before embarking on this route and read the web page InSite Tours Ireland

To say the drive was exhilarating was an understatement. I’m just glad that it was Ray driving. As well as the very narrow, winding roads, meeting a Dutch motorhome in the opposite direction was interesting, as was the numerous cars heading towards us at great speed, to a wedding venue which we had just past.

We were somewhat relieved when we finally saw the sweeping beach of Cushendun and the quaint row of Cornish-style cottages it is well known for. We pulled into the harbour area and were welcomed by a sculpture of Johann the goat, a larger than life past inhabitant of the village.

Johann the Goat

The village is now owned by the National Trust and boasts the Cushendun Caves which were used for one of the scenes of Game of Thrones.

Cushendun Village

Our next stop was Glenariff Forest Park. Today the car park charge had been waived, but we appeared to be one of only a handful of cars in the park? Maybe our expectations of this wonderful waterfall were misguided, although by now the rain was beginning to come down more steadily. (Perhaps that was the clue).

Not to be put off, we brought out the umbrellas and headed off on the waterfall trail. Yes it was cold. Yes it was a little wet underfoot and overhead, but as we made our way down through the forest gorge, we could hear the sound of rushing, pounding water.

Our final approach down some steps took us to a boardwalk and our first sight of a waterfall. We were definitely not disappointed. The waterfall was all the more spectacular, for the additional rainfall Ireland had been experiencing lately! The damp conditions in the river gorge is obviously an ideal environment for many exotic looking plants, which only add to the experience.

We felt like royalty. We didn’t encounter another sole as we followed the board walk and the river down to Manor Lodge restaurant, half way round the walk. As you reach this point, there is also another smaller, but lovely waterfall to admire.

The return to the car park, tea house and craft shop, was up a steep forestry track, which certainly tests your lung capacity! There are some well situated benches along the track, should you need to pause for a while, and when the weather allows, ideal spots to take in the lovely views. At times we were nearly climbing into the clouds!

Reaching the car park was a relief by now, as the waterproof jackets were creating a sauna effect for both of us! Maybe on a future visit we will get to enjoy the other trails in Glenariff Nature Reserve.

Northern Ireland

Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge

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Saturday 16th September

The weather was due to change around 11 o’clock so we knew we had to be up early to avoid the crowds and the rain, if we were to make the most of Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge experience. A National Trust location, meant our membership cards were useful again. We arrived at the location in Ballintoy, which was only a short journey along the Causeway Coastal route. A new timed ticket system is now in operation, and for the moment is not bookable online. Your ticket has an hour window in which to reach the bridge. Once on the island, you are welcome to spend as much time as you like there.

From the kiosk where you purchase your tickets, it is a 1 km walk to the rope bridge and over to Carrick Island. There are some steep steps down and back on the journey, so be prepared. Along the walk are some super views out to sea over Larrybane Bay and Sheep Island, as well as Rathlin Island. If you’re lucky you might even spot some basking sharks, dolphins or porpoises.

Ray took the challenge first, although for him it didn’t pose a problem. For me it was a lot more daunting. The metal steps down to the rope bridge were fairly steep and when the wind is whistling, you need to hold on to the handrails. A steward is located at the top of the stairs here and another on the other side of the bridge. Not that made me any less nervous. A limited number of people are allowed on the bridge at any one time.

The Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge is 20 metres long and is 30 metres above the rocks below. (If you look back through archive footage, you find it hard to believe that for 350 years, salmon fisherman, made this trip across to the island on far flimsier attempts at a rope bridge).   I didn’t even notice there were rocks below! My eyes were firmly fixed on the steward on the other side! I must admit it was exhilarating to make it to the other side.

After some time taking in the views from the island we queued to make the journey back across the bridge. This wasn’t quite so scary but had to be done to get back to the car park! I would have been okay, apart from some bright spark who thought it would be fun to bounce up and down behind me! He soon realised if he didn’t stop I wasn’t going anywhere!

Unfortunately, due to the rain, the coastal walk wasn’t possible so we made our way back to the car.

We did it!

Certificate Of Success
Northern Ireland

Giant’s Causeway

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Friday 15th September

When on the Causeway Coast, The Giant’s Causeway is a must. It is Northern Ireland’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the National Trust, so our membership cards will come in handy today. The weather was forecast to be better today, so we had to take advantage of that. As we made our way out of Portrush on A2, we passed Royal Portrush Golf Club and it did look so inviting, but at £180 per person per round, we will be giving it a miss this time. We stopped at Whiterocks Coastal Park to take in the views of the lovely sandy beach and watch a few golfers battling the rather windy links conditions.

Whiterocks Coastal Park

As we continued along the Causeway Coastal route, we caught sight of Dunluce Castle, after which, the road is named. It is considered one of the most romantic and picturesque of Irish Castles. (As well as one of the film locations for Game of Thrones). The current ruins date mainly from 16th and 17th centuries.

Dunluce Castle

We journeyed on until we reached the village of Bushmills,  where we knew we would be able to take the park and ride to the Giant’s Causeway. (Although the village is probably more famous for the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery). The car park was free and the buses run every 20 minutes to the Giant’s Causeway, so we didn’t have long to wait. The short 5 minute trip was worthwhile, as the car park was full of tour buses, and cars were being directed back to the park and ride.

The visitor’s centre was amazing but absolutely heaving! It was a very striking building, with walls of glass, basalt columns and a state of the art interior, with apparently no right angles. Getting our tickets was a piece of cake and we had the option of taking an outdoor audio guide or joining a guided tour.

Giants Causeway

We chose the latter, which meant we would be walking down to the Causeway. (There are buses which ferry people to and from at a cost of £1, FOC if you are a NT member). We had the added bonus of our guide’s sense of humour, and well tailored patter about the geology, legend and folklore of this true spectacle. Now all those retellings of Finn McCool at school would be brought to life!

Walking The Stones Of The Giants Causeway

The guided tour lasted approximately an hour and then we were able to explore the area on our own, for as long as we wished. We decided to continue along one of the 4 trails advertised, along a path and up the cliffs to The Amphitheatre. From here we gained a different perspective of the Causeway and Port Noffer. Once we had made our way back down, we did what most people come to do – clamber over the hexagonal basalt rocks to marvel at this wonder. Owing to recent heavy rain, some areas were out of bounds, but it didn’t make a lot of difference as there were many places to climb, sit and ponder at it’s beauty.

A Popular Attraction

Having taken loads of photos, we made our way back to the visitor centre. Here were many exhibition areas to explore and enjoy the science and stories, including a big screen. There was of  course, the obligatory cafe and shop. A short wait for the park and ride and we were back in Bushmills.

We wandered off to find the Bushmills Railway, which follows the two mile extension of the original Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Hydro Electric Tram Track, but it is only open at the weekends in September! Always good to do your homework first.

We did make our way over to the ‘Dark Hedges‘,  a tunnel-like avenue of inter-twinned beech trees, planted in the 18th century, but we were somewhat disappointed.  Owing to Games of Thrones series, there were too many people dressed in capes, welding swords, re-enacting scenes from the television series and large tourists coaches parked along the road, obscuring any possible view. We will add this to our future wish list, out of season.