Tuesday 11th September 2018
Today we visited Rjukan, a former industrial town that sits in a steep sided gorge. It is most famous for the saboteur activities against the German held Vemork heavy water factory during World War II, by The Heroes Of Telemark.
During the months of September to March the town receives no direct sunlight so they have constructed three mirrors that track the Sun and reflect light into the market square.
Our first port of call today was to Vemork, the former power station and fertiliser factory that was the scene of the sabotage and now is the Norwegian National Worker Museum.
Arriving in the car park we were faced, in not too nice weather conditions, with a 700 metre hike up to the factory involving a bridge over the ravine, some extremely steep steps, and a muddy path before joining the road up to the factory
Once inside the museum we perused exhibits detailing the town itself, the establishment of industry in the town by Norske Hydro, and the history of German occupation, heavy water production and sabotage.
The hydro electric turbine hall was open too. This was the most powerful hydro electric plant in the world when opened in 1911. On the second floor is a cinema where we watched a film detailing the sabotage efforts and bombing of the plant in the 1940’s.
It also brought home the hardship the saboteurs had to endure hiding out in the mountains before starting their mission and the loss of life of the British forces while attempting to land in gliders.
After the plant was damaged the Germans moved production to Germany and attempted to move the remaining D²O to Germany. They planned to move it on the railway ferry initially but the saboteurs managed to sink the ferry, SF Hydro, with its’ valuable cargo thus preventing the Germans from advancing their atomic weapon development. Unfortunately 14 Norwegian were killed in the attack.
After a visit to the cafeteria for a warming hot chocolate we made our way back to the car and back into town. A mercy mission to the Vinmonopolet was called for, for some wine and another exorbitantly priced bottle of gin. On way back ‘home’ we stopped off at the active Saheim Power Station and the attractive stone built Rjukan Church, built in 1915.
Later, we drove down to Mæl Ferry Terminal, where the SF Hydro had left on its final journey. The museum was closed but we were able to wander around and inspect the remaining ferries and rolling stock.
As we drove back the wind speed increased dramatically and the temperature fell sharply. Time for a warming glass of red in the cosy caravan 🙂