Category Archives: France

Nîmes

Sunday 15th October 2017

Another glorious day and we were making our way to Nîmes. It is in the Occitannie region and once an important outpost of the Roman Empire.

The name had cropped up a few times whilst we were at the Pont du Gard. (Also known as the Nîmes aqueduct).

The city of Nîmes has a number of well preserved Roman monuments; the most famous being the Arena of Nîmes.

On our arrival, we located an underground car park quite easily in the centre of the city. It was in the area of the Esplanade Charles  de Gaulle.

The area was delightful with well positioned shaded seating areas and some lovely water features, such as rills and fountains.

The amphitheatre was just a short walk from the public garden area and was just as imposing as we had imagined.

There it was in all its glory, smack bang amongst the modern buildings of the city, but nevertheless not looking the least bit out of place. (Big plus, not another tourist in sight!)

We purchased a combined ticket for the amphitheatre, Le Maison Carrée, a restored Roman temple and La Tour Magne. (An 18 m stone watch tower, part of the city wall, with panoramic views over the city).

We were informed that we would be able to walk to the other 2 monuments, but a word of caution. Yes, you can, but the Tour Magne is situated at the top of Les Jardins de la Fountaine, which means a steep walk, so be prepared.

We were provided with an audio guide for the Arena, which we were able to use quite easily, by following the numbers located on various parts of the walls. If you are interested in the history, then this aid is fantastic and provides huge amounts of detail about anything and everything relating to the Arena, including how it is still used as a bull ring and a venue for concerts or sporting events.

We were blown away by the vastness of the construction and in admiration of not only the incredible building skills of the Romans, but also the huge amount of dedication that is being paid to the monument through its long term restoration project.

It was possible to walk almost anywhere, apart from on the arena floor, which had been set up for an event. Even up to the very top and take in the views.

You can climb to the very top of the arena and admire the city but some of the rises are quite high, so make use of any thing you can find as a lever!

Time to head off for a bite of lunch before taking in any more ‘history’.

We found ourselves at Big Fernand, L’Atelier du hamburgé. All the produce is French and fresh. Home made mayonnaise and delicious fries with herbes d’Provence, which was a new condiment for us.

Feeling nourished we reverted to our Google map to lead us in the direction of Le Tour Magne. It led us to Les Jardins de la Fountaine by one of the lovely waterways in the city. A marvellous gadget!

We paused to take in the Temple of Diane, which had definitely seen better days, but more interesting was the filming which was taking place in the gardens.

Numerous people dressed in period Roman costumes listening carefully to the instructions of the director.

We made the long, steep walk up towards the Tour Magne, pausing every so often in the pretence of taking in the views.

At last we reached our target – The Tour Magne.

The next target was to ascend the spiral steps to the top of the tower. Unfortunately there wasn’t anywhere to pause and take a breath, as the stairs were steep and narrow.

Somehow we made it to the top! Once again we were rewarded with stunning views across another city. (At least the descent would be a lot easier!)

We made our way back down through the gardens, listening to the shouting and screaming of the actors below us.

By the time we reached the bottom, there were many ‘slaughtered’ actors littering the gardens, but the filming had ‘cut’ for a moment, so we moved on.

We made our way back to the car via another lovely walk. The Avenue Jean Jaurés/Les Allées Jaurés.

Time for home and put our feet up!

Avignon School Reunion

Saturday 14th October 2017

Recently I had been in contact with my head teacher from the school I had left in July. She and her husband had been in France for the last 5 weeks and it just so happened that they would be in Avignon over the weekend. We made arrangements to meet at noon to catch up over lunch.

Ray and I took advantage of the park & ride again, and surprisingly, it was very quiet, albeit a Saturday morning.

We arrived an hour early in order that we could re-visit Les Halles, the covered market which had been closed on our previous visit.

The market did not disappoint. There were numerous stalls selling a huge variety of local produce and specialities of Provence; fish, meat, cheese, bread, vegetables, as well as local wines, handmade pastries and flans, salts, herbs, olives and olive oils.

The choice was endless, and typically laid out in the most inviting fashion.

Just a small example of the wonderful array of shellfish.

We wandered back towards the Place de L’Horlage. We have taken to purchasing a memento, in the form of a painting or photograph of the places we have visited and Ray spotted a stall with lovely watercolours of Provence.

He got chatting to the artist, who’s English was much better than his French and before long had purchased a delightful ‘petit’ watercolour of Cháteauneuf du Pape, which we had passed through the other day.

Just at this moment, who should we bump into but my headteacher Karen and her husband Martin. It was fantastic to see them both and we spent the next few hours catching up and sharing notes about our travels so far.

Lunch over, we said our goodbyes and left Karen and Martin to enjoy the sights of Avignon and we headed back to the car park.

As we left the city ramparts, we noticed a few of the huge river cruise ships moored up.

We headed over to take a closer look. They certainly are magnificent looking boats. The Swiss Corona, the Viking Buri and the Amacello.

Whilst strolling on the promenade we spotted that the 1 hour Rhône River cruise (Les Croisìeres MireioAvignon) was about to depart, so decided to give it a go.

It was a very pleasant way to spend an hour. In fact it was a very soporific way to spend an hour, after lunch, in the heat of the afternoon!

It certainly isn’t the way I would recommend you choose to explore Avignon, as a walk around the city would be more preferable.

Nevertheless it was a smooth cruise taking in views of the Pont d’Avignon and Villeneuve d’Avignon, which we hadn’t visited.

If time had allowed we would definitely have taken the option of one of the other cruises offered, such as the lunch cruise to Arles, with time off the boat to explore the city too.

Tarascon Château – home of the Princess of Anjou

Friday 13th October

We had enjoyed a meal on Wednesday night in the Restaurant du Château in Tarascon and it was not difficult to notice the chateau, as it was lit up and directly opposite our table!

So following the purchase of my new bike in Avignon, it was time to test it’s durability and my road riding skills and head off to the Cháteau.

We left our campsite in Vallabrègues for the 7 km ride to Tarascon. (Saddle sore sprang to mind at this point!).

The ride was reasonably easy, no hill climbs, just a gentle rise in the gradient in parts and my pilot riding ahead did a brilliant job leading me along the safest parts of the road.

The Chateau at Tarascon was built around ca 1400 and sits on the banks of the Rhône, opposite it’s sister city of Beaucaire on the other side of the river. It has also served as a military prison from the middle of 17th century, up until the early 19th.

We entered the Chateau, crossing the bridge over the moat, which surrounds it and towards the middle courtyard.

We used the guide we had been given to explore the castle on the Rhône side first. This eventually led us to terrace, which was vast and allowed us to enjoy the views over Tarascon, Beaucaire, the River Rhône , as well as the Alpilles Mountains.

To access the town side of the castle, we had to descend via the northern turret. Most of the rooms on this side were the royal apartments. Although the rooms are devoid of any of their former possessions, inventories from the 15th century have been used to create ‘a picture’ of what life may have been like in the life King René.

I particularly liked the braille books. I’ve never seen these before.

If you are interested in contemporary art, then this might be a place to visit. There were many regional exhibits in different areas of the chateau, not to everyone’s taste though.

(Read this brilliant blog and you will get ‘a real’ flavour of the Cháteau).

Our particular highlights were the ‘en-suites’/latrines in some of the royal apartments. Even the French had standards! (Sorry the picture wasn’t clear enough to print).

Having had our fill of medieval castles, we set off for home in amongst the Friday night traffic. Friday 13th night traffic!!

Home safely, not even a little saddle sore, we enjoyed a G&T in the late evening sun and looked forward to our nightly visit of our colony of bats and our resident owl.

Avignon

Thursday 12th October 2017

An ideal day to visit the historic city of Avignon. The weather was glorious and set to reach a scorching 27°c!!

First on the agenda, find a car park. As with most busy cities, parking can sometimes be an issue. Although cars are permitted within the walls of the city, throw in the mix,  the tiny narrow roads, one way systems and sometimes impatient French drivers and it is often easier to find a park & ride.

As luck would have it, we located one on Île de Piot, which was also accessible from Vallabrégues without entering the busiest part of the city. The day was boding well already.

We parked and waited no time at all for a bus to ferry us over the Pont Édouard Daladier to a bus stop immediately outside the city walls.

There are many UNESCO world heritage sites to visit in Avignon and it would take more than a day to pack in every possibility.

We purchased a combined ticket for Pont D’Avignon (Saint Bénezet) and Palais de Papes.

The 12th century bridge was once the only way to cross the Rhône between Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea. It originally had 22 arches, but only 4 remain today, following several floods. Of course most of us are familiar with the bridge, due to the children’s song ‘Sur le pont d’Avignon’.

As the temperature began to rise we headed off to the  Palais des Papes for some shade. We made our way along some quaint, narrow shady ‘chemins’ towards the palace.

This very imposing 14th century building was built in less than 20 years, which is hard to believe when you see it’s size!

It is the biggest Gothic palace in the world and there are more than 20 rooms which you are able to visit including the private apartments.

There were 2 marked routes to follow around the palace. One takes you on a tour of the papal apartments, ceremonial rooms and chapels on the ground floor . We took an audio guide to help us learn as much as possible about the popes, their political power, as well as their daily lives and their palace, including the many beautiful frescoes.

The palace also offers visitors continuous cultural activities throughout the year. This year was an array of contemporary African art on display.

Before we attempted the second route, we paused for lunch at the Benoît X11 cloister with 360° views around a small open air garden.

After lunch we ascended the cloister stairs to enjoy more rooms, which eventually led to The Great Dignitaries’ terrace.

The views over the city and the River Rhône from here were breathtaking. Ray even managed to zoom right in on the gilded statue of Mary on the bell tower of the Cathedral Notre Dames des Doms.

Once our visit was over, we headed off towards the gardens at the Rocher des Doms. It was like a little oasis in the city. It was easy to see why it would be a popular spot for escaping the heat of the day.

Again, there were opportunities to take in even more views, including Mount Ventoux that we had visited the other day.

After enjoying a ‘glace’ by the pond, we headed back towards the Cathedral Notre Dames des Doms, passing the petit train (tourist train) on the start of it’s circuit around the city.

By now, it was close to ‘beer o’clock’, as Ray refers to it. We made our way towards the Place de L’Horlage and quickly found the perfect place to enjoy a drink, opposite the opera house. The clock tower square is the main square and the heart of Avignon and a popular place to meet and enjoy a meal or drink in the many restaurants or cafés.

Feeling refreshed I persuaded Ray to take a walk around the shops, not a pastime that he particularly enjoys but he was agreeable. As we made our way from the Place de L’Horlage, we came across a group of dancers in medieval costumes performing for the crowds. The Place is a venue for annual events like the festival d’Avignon.

We had subsequently found out that our encounter last Saturday, whilst in the car, with a large group of people dressed in costume, was Le 8eme Festival Médiéval de la Rose d’Or. A biannual event of living history from 12th to 15th century.  Enthusiasts come from all over the world and begin the festivities with a parade through the city streets on Saturday afternoon. On Sunday, the highlight of the event, contests and tournaments take place, including fencing, sword fighting and archery. As well this, many camps are located on one of the islands, where music, dance, crafts and food of the period may be experienced and enjoyed.

We were a little disappointed not to have found out all this information the previous weekend. Never mind, another excuse to re-visit Avignon in two years time, perhaps.

We made our way to Les Halles, a covered market and must go place to purchase local produce. It also boasts a fascinating living wall at it’s entrance. Unfortunately I hadn’t done my homework and it was closed. (A good excuse to return.)

By now we were both feeling peckish and returned to the Place de L’Horlage for a plat du jour.

Lou Mistrau was our choice, next to the Hotel de Ville, where there happened to be a Blues event on. I enjoyed a Salade Niςoise and Ray a filet d’porc, followed by the dessert of the day – crêpes.  Delicious.

Another fantastic day in paradise!!

 

The Daily Bombardier 415 show

Saturday 14th October 2017

Everyday, at totally random times, since we have been at Camping Lou Vincen, we have had the chance to watch the firefighting water bombers refill their tanks by skimming down the Rhône river running alongside camp, The Daily Bombardier 415 show. 🙂

The aircraft are Bombardier 415s. It is quite an impressive sight as the aircraft have to do some quite steep turns to position themselves for their run as there are a lot of power cables in the area.

Once in position the aircraft skims down the river and it is possible to hear the water rushing in.

At the end of the run the now very heavy aircraft slowly climbs as the excess water is ejected.
It is quite a show, and the sound of the aircraft coming overhead has campers rushing for their cameras every time.

Apparently, it does not always go to plan though!