Friday 19th October 2018
We had read about a river cruise along the Danube from Vienna city centre to Bratislava in Slovakia, a city that neither of us had visited before. Booking on line is so easy to do nowadays that we wasted no time checking out possible round trip timings on the day we thought would be perfect weather wise, preferably not on a weekend.
Twin City Liner Cruises seemed a good option. They offer 5 different departure times from Vienna and 5 return times, with a choice of seat reservation prices. Unfortunately due to the lateness of our booking, our only option was 2 seats in the Captain’s Lounge area, €90 round trip, each. It was a little more than we had expected to pay but we didn’t intend having the opportunity again, so went for it.
Seats booked and paid for we asked reception if they would print the tickets out, which they kindly did, saving us an extra €5, the charge for collection at the Vienna departure gate.
Klosterneuburg railway station was only a short 5 minute walk from the campsite and we could purchase train tickets from here to Schwedenplatz which again was only a short walk to board our river cruise. With just a single change at Spittelau station on the S40 metropolitan S-Bahn line onto the subway U4 our journey time was around 30 minutes. Tickets €4.20 each.
As we had booked the 9.00 am departure we had to be up somewhat earlier than our normal reveille time 😉
On arrival in Vienna at Schwedenplatz, with ample time to spare, we grabbed a coffee and then walked over to the River Danube and the boarding area for our trip.
Unfortunately our 9.00 am and 4.00 pm return boat had been cancelled and we were told to go back to the reservation desk. Not a good start to anyone’s day but such is life.
Our experience with one of the staff at the desk was not a pleasant one. She was very abrupt and some lessons in customer service would be advisable. She told us we could re-book for another departure, including the 8.30 am or cancel, but as we had booked online we would have to pay again for these tickets.
After consideration we really didn’t have any option but to pay for new tickets on the 8.30 am and return on the 14.30 pm, although this time we opted for seats costing €120 in total.
The trip was pleasant and comfortable to Bratislava, although there isn’t much to see en route, except for a number of fishing lodges along the river bank. There is a small kiosk to purchase snacks and drinks, cash only though. You can also walk about and enjoy the bracing fresh air on the outdoor deck.
We have read that a train from Vienna to Bratislava station is only about €10 although it is outside of the main city area but you can still take a tram, bus or even walk the 13kms.
Whilst on board we also booked a €10 per person one hour tour of the city, in one of Flora Tours distinctive red Old Timer buses. Headphones were also supplied for the extensive commentary. It included a 20 minute stopover at the castle and departed immediately on embarking the boat in Bratislava, which was ideal as our time was now limited due to the boat cancellation fiasco.
The ride was somewhat bumpy because of many tram tracks all over the city so be prepared. The service offered by this company was excellent; as were all the staff and we would highly recommend them.
The tour took in several of the main attractions of the city, including Bratislava Castle and it terminated close to the Slovak National Theatre where it is easy to walk into the Old Town and explore the historic centre and lunch 😉
Despite it being the middle of October the city was very busy and there were numerous tour buses and walking tours evident throughout the day.
Little remains of the medieval city fortifications and if you take the city tour you will pass the last remaining stretch of wall on the route.
Close to the remains of the city walls is the three nave Gothic cathedral built in 1452, replacing the previous Romanesque church.
Heading back into the Old Town we made our way to main square Hlavné námestie, considered to be the centre of town, first passing by the Neoclassical Primate’s Palace and square.
Our time in Bratislava was nearly up but we made sure that we found one of the most photographed attractions, a bronze sculpture at the junction of Laurinská and Panská streets. His name is Čumil, the watcher.
Finally back at the landing stage we watched our ferry arrive.
The weather was much brighter on our return journey to Vienna and we managed a few final photos of Bratislava as we departed.
We are pleased to have had the opportunity to visit Bratislava and enjoy the hospitality of the Slovak people but feel we would need to have stayed longer to appreciate all the city has to offer and the country itself.