North into County Galway

Thursday 7th September 2017

Our only disappointment visiting County Clare, was not to admire the Cliffs of Moher and take in The Burren in the north of the County. (Something to add to our future wish list). Nevertheless, it’s onwards and upwards north into County Galway.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 160 – Cumulative: 1,516

Towing the caravan does mean you have to consider the routes and roads to take, which sometimes means missing out on some sights and scenery, but them’s the breaks I guess. We set off on N67 towards Ballyvaughan, a small harbour village on the southern shore of Galway Bay. Some of the road on our approach towards Ballyvaughan was very exciting.

Twisting hairpin bends made the drive much more fun and brought back some fond memories for Ray on his many motorbike trips. From here we hugged the coastline to Kinvara and into County Galway. What a picture postcard place this was! There was a delightful hotel, The Merriman Inn and many other thatched properties.

As we left the village we past Dunguaire Castle, as 16th century Tower House.

Sometime later we made our approach to the city of Galway. (Ring roads around the major cities is always such fun). We seemed to be doing so well on N6, circumnavigating the busy parts of the city, when for some obscure reason the sat nav had other ideas. We were on an R road and heading towards Galway Cathedral on the banks of the River Corrib!

As it turned out we enjoyed the detour. We certainly wouldn’t have seen the Cathedral otherwise. After then passing some of the National University of Galway campus sites and the many students on foot, we made it back on the N road out of the city and South Galway.

Our inland route followed Lough Corrib, the largest lake in the Republic of Ireland, towards The Twelve Bens mountain range and our next stop, Connemara. The landscape had changed. It was very flat, with numerous loughs and very few villages.

Finally we arrived in Clifden, the unofficial capital of Connemara and the next stop on our tour. Our camp site was just north out of Clifden, although we nearly missed the tiny sign indicating where it was! Clifden Campsite and Caravan Park. (Formerly Shanaheever).

Doolin

Wednesday 6th September 2017

Feeling refreshed after our journey yesterday, we wrapped up warm and headed off on the 2 km walk to Doolin Pier. Hopefully we would be able to take in some views of the Aran Islands or even a ferry trip.

We passed through Doolin village, which was very popular with tourists and tour coaches and continued past the local pitch and putt, which would have been a certain challenge in the wind conditions until reaching the pier.

It wasn’t the most picturesque place and today was definitely not a day to be taking a ferry. Well, not me, I’m not very good on the calmest of days on the water. It was disappointing as the ferry companies also  operate trips to view the Cliffs of Moher.

After watching some much hardier sailors depart for the Cliffs of Moher, we walked back to our campsite, watching the boat bobbing up and down in the Atlantic. (My decision not to take to the water had been the right one). Unlike me, who was watching the boat, Ray happened to spot a notice and couldn’t help wondering how Paddy had calculated the fine??

We were considering making the 7 km coastal walk to the Cliffs of Moher and the visitor centre in the afternoon, but the weather had taken a turn for the worse, and it wasn’t looking a very inviting idea.

There is a Hop on, Hop off coastal walk shuttle bus service which operates along the Cliffs of Moher coastal walk, linking the villages of Doolin and Liscannor, which means parking the car is not a problem, and well worth considering during peak times.

Later that afternoon, the weather had still not improved, so we went for a drive on R478 along the coast, hoping to stop at the Cliffs of Moher to view this natural attraction, which is free to view. Unfortunately the only car park at the visitor centre was heaving and we had no option but to continue down to Liscannor and on wards to Lahinch. The links golf club of Lahinch ran right along the road and looked fantastic! It should be – the green fees are € 190!

Into County Clare

Tuesday 5th September 2017

Another towing day today, from our pitch at Woodlands in Tralee to County Clare as we travelled across North Kerry on the N69, through Listowel and on to Tarbet on the mouth of the River Shannon.

A roll-on roll-off ferry between Tarbet and Killimer operates hourly throughout the day, taking only 20 minutes, saving a long drive around the Estuary.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 114 – Cumulative: 1,356

Our journey took us through Kilrush and onto Kilkee on N67. We decided not to take in Loop Head, as we were towing the caravan. We paused briefly at Kilkee, a large horseshoe bay, with many seaside buildings, including a water park. Although the bay was stunning, it was very built up, with numerous dwellings and imagine it is very busy during peak times.

From Kilkee we were back on The Wild Atlantic Way heading north . As we approached Doonbeg we spotted signs for ‘The Trump International Links Golf Course’. Having stopped to take a few photos, we realised that our budget definitely wouldn’t stretch for a round here. Plus, I’m not sure Donald would appreciate our caravan in the car park!

As we journeyed on, we drove through Quilty,  Spanish Point and as we approached Lahinch, we decided to stick to the wider N67 to our destination Doolin and save our exploration of the Wild Atlantic Way to another day.

At last we arrived at our new home, O’Connor’s Riverside Caravan and Camping Park. It’s selling point to us was ‘within walking distance to pubs‘. The camp was small, with some interesting ‘Glamping’ dwellings, including a Mongolian Yurt and a Native Indian Tipi.

We set up, or rather, Ray set up, and then we headed off to one of the nearest hotels/pubs, Fitzgeralds, to quench our thirst and savour some Galway mussels. Just the ticket after a long day in the car.

Slea Head Drive – Dingle

Monday 4th September 2017

The Slea Head drive is a circular route, forming part of The Wild Atlantic Way, starting and ending in Dingle. (Dingle being a small port town on the southwest of the peninsula). We travelled southwest out of Tralee towards the village of Camp, taking  the Caherconree scenic route,   through the Slieve Mish Mountains.

This narrow link road took us from the north side of the  Dingle Peninsula to the south side, allowing us to take in even more spectacular scenery.

On many of of our drives we have noticed  beautiful Fuchsia  and Montbretia plants, gracing many of the country lanes, adding a lovely splash of colour.

On reaching the southern side of the peninsula we headed towards Inch. We parked our car on the beach at Inch, which wasn’t a problem, as the beach stretched for miles!

After braving the wind for a while, we headed to the beach cafe for coffee and cake. If you love surfing this is the beach for you! Off again to Dingle,  through Ventry and at last we could see Slea Head. Unfortunately the car park was heaving so we drove on to Dunquin pier, in the hope of catching the ferry to Blasket islands.

Just our luck, the ferry wasn’t operating on a Monday. Not to be disheartened we made the trek down the winding steep path to the pier. Once at the bottom, we were greeted by huge cliffs and a view to Blasket islands.

Coming back up the hill was a struggle. It was so incredibly steep! At last we made it back to the safety of the car. We continued on the Slea Head Drive taking in many of the villages on the north of the peninsula, before finally making our way back to Dingle.

Finally Ray’s highlight of the day had arrived – The Conor Pass. It is the highest mountain pass in Ireland, crossing the Brandon mountains. The road is over 4 miles long and rises to 1500 ft as it winds it’s way to the pass.  By the time we reached the car park at the pass though, the fog had moved in and we were unable to take advantage of the stunning views. On a clear day, you can see Loop Head in Clare, Galway’s Aran Islands and the beaches at Castlegregory. The road then carries on down towards Brandon Bay, past cliffs, lakes and a waterfall.

Conor Pass

Back on the road to Tralee and home for the night. The weather had picked up and a BBQ was the order of the day. To top it all a beautiful sunset completed the day. (Just before the rains arrived, again!)

Onward to Tralee

Sunday 3rd September 2017

After our wash out yesterday we decided to pack up and make our way onward to Tralee (home of the Rose of Tralee), to complete the Ring of Kerry.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 90 – Cumulative: 1,242

The rain had eased but fog was now making the journey more exciting. Let’s hope we don’t meet any tourist buses today!

We drove through Waterville and Cahersiveen towards Killorglin. The weather had started to improve and we caught glimpses of the views across the bay to the Dingle Peninsula. Our descent into Tralee on the N70 was unexpected but we finally made our next stop, Woodlands Park Caravan and Camping.

Before entering the site we noticed that the garage just up the road sold LPG so we stopped to top off the gas tanks. To get the filler close enough to the pumps involved a fella opening a gate for Ray to reverse the caravan through, not good with spectators, but no damage done 🙂

As we were only a short walk from Tralee, we strolled into town before supper, via The Rose Walk.

I couldn’t resist this up cycled old school desk outside a local school on the way back. 

Fingers crossed the weather will be on our side tomorrow.