Cabo de Gata-Níjar

Thursday 1st February 2018

Our campsite was located in the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park; a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. It very much resembled the landscape of the old ‘cowboy’ films  and this location has, in the past, been the location for Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, James Bond and Never Say Never Again and several  spaghetti westerns. Well you learn something new every day 😉

From our campsite we were told it was a 1km walk down to the coast and the Playa at Los Escullos, so we made our way south of the site, down a very shabby track, with stones and deep tyre tracks. The immediate surroundings were not particularly awe inspiring, but the views of the mountains in the distance were stunning.

Los Escullos was not much to write home about; a small beach and very little else. The only hotel was closed and no shops or bars were evident, but maybe in the summer it would look more alive?

We did attempt to take our bikes along the cliff top path from Los Escullos to the pueblo of San José but before long the tarmac road soon ran out and the terrain, although considered to be of gentle gradient, was extremely difficult to cycle on, and without mountain bikes, we were definitely not going to make it.

The coastal views from here though were superb and the sound of silence was very welcome. The coastline is jagged and much of the offshore rocky islands and underwater coral reefs attract divers and snorkelers during the warmer times of the year.

Change of plan; back to the campsite and take the car. San José was a short drive and was quite a bit larger than we had expected and the hills on either side of the village were packed with whitewashed houses, villas and apartments of all shapes and sizes.

In the centre of the town is a small beach and port and a number of restaurants, bars and places to stay.

Out of the town heading westward we followed the signs for the two most popular beaches in the area, Playa de los Genoveses and Playa de Mónsul.

The approach road was dusty and uneven. During peak times a shuttle bus operates along the rough track to either beach, which is helpful, as it is a good few kilometres to the first beach and then the same again to the next.

Playa de los Genoveses is a super long sandy beach reached through a partly cultivated natural space, Campillo de los Genoveses.

Between the two beaches is an area known as the Sierra de Cabo de Gata, popular for its wildlife and fauna and flora.

As you approach the Playa de Mónsul you cannot help but notice a huge rock formation in the middle of the beach, known as the petrified wave.

Next we headed out of San José, towards Los Escullos, to explore more of the coastline on the east of the Cabo de Gata.

First stop La Isleta de Moro, a stone’s throw from our campsite. A short drive from the main coast road led us into this quaint and relatively unspoilt village of small white houses. There was a parking area overlooking the main beach, large enough for numerous motorhomes, which was sandy and looked ideal for bathing, but we followed the main road right down to the shore and luckily found a parking spot near the communal washing area.

There were several fishing boats lying on the small pebbled beach and a well positioned restaurant overlooking the sea. The outside area also had a covered section, which was fortunate for the diners, as the wind was blowing quite violently. Nevertheless it was an ideal spot to enjoy the views whilst dining.

From here we made our way up a large rock, with superb views all around the village, the main beach and out to sea.

We strolled through the tiny back streets, which didn’t take long before we made our way back to the car and onwards around the coast road.

Next stop a viewing platform next to a small parking area, Mirador de La Amatista, just off the AL4200. From here it is possible to take a path to a small cove if the fancy takes you or just admire the views all around.

Continuing on we passed by the village of Rodalquier, a haven for the local artistic community, when we spotted signs for the Playa el Playazo.

The road to the Playa el Playazo was longer than we had anticipated but it was a good surface and easy to drive along. By now the sun was casting superb shadows on the sides of the mountains and the dense succulent vegetation was abundant in this area. We could also pick out small water wells dotted amongst the plants.

At the end was a large sandy parking area, where numerous camper vans/ motor homes, some permanent residents and even a caravan were pitched up!

The sandy beach was long and wide and would certainly be great for swimming and sunbathing.

Finally, as time was against us, we made it to Las Negras, on the AL3106. The pueblo was different to the others we had visited. The houses and the town were more modern and much larger than most we had seen. The beach was stony and not as attractive as many we had explored. The general feel of the place was that it would probably appeal to the younger generation, with many small modern apartments, few bars and restaurants close to the sea front.

There is no denying that the variety of hidden coves, sandy beaches and spectacular scenery makes this one of the most beautiful unspoilt areas in Andalucía to visit.

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