Friday 20th April 2018
About 10 kilometres from our base was the delightful hilltop village of Vejer de la Frontera. This classic white village is perched high above the steep gorge of the River Barbate. A spot of sightseeing and lunch were the order of the day.
We approached via the winding steep A-2229 road and parked up close to the tourist office and made our way up a steep road towards the old part of the village.
The village is not particularly large and is easily accessible on foot, although like many typical Andalusian towns and villages, has some steep steps and narrow winding cobbled streets to navigate.
Much of the old walls of the village still remain as do four well preserved arches and two towers.
We paused before entering the walls to admire ……..
From the Arco de la Puerta Cerrada we could easily access the 10th century castle. It is perched on the highest part of the hill and on the location of a previous Arab castle. We climbed up to the battlements and were able to take in the views across the old town, the green countryside and towards the coast. It certainly wasn’t a grand castle but there were some interesting features. On the day we visited the interior of the castle was closed.
Whilst strolling through the streets of the old walled village, you will often come across doorways ajar which offer you a glance into the private patios or courtyards. A cool oasis to retreat to on a hot summer’s day, with flowers and plants for added colour.
On leaving the castle we passed the street of Arco de las Monjas, where after the 18th century earthquake buttresses were built to bear the weight of the lateral walls and arrived at the Convent of Monjas Concepcionistas.
Further along the road we reached the impressive parish church of Iglesia del Divino Salvador, built on the site of an earlier mosque.
Walking around the church we were able to observe the different periods of construction in the church’s’ history and more of the village’s walls.
Leaving the church we followed the walls until we entered the Plaza de España, via another of the arches, Arco de la Villa.
This picturesque village square has a beautiful fountain in the centre, with colourful hand-painted tiles. Like many squares throughout Spain there are several bars, restaurants, hotels and areas to sit, meet and watch the world go by.
Here we found the Moorish La Casa Del Califa Hotel our venue for lunch.
The Califa complex has evolved from the union of ten houses, four in the Plaza and six in Calle Cilla Vieja and is certainly worth a visit, even if you are not contemplating eating. There is a rooftop terrace which affords spectacular views over the town whilst enjoying a beverage or two.
In the whole complex 7 cisterns (wells) have been found, 7 entries on three different streets, 11 different stairways, 80 windows, 48 doors, 4 courtyards and a cave! That’s according to information in the front of the menu.
We made our way from the Plaza through a maze of corridors and stairways to El Jardín Del Califa, the restaurant.
Unfortunately we were unable to eat on the terrace as the wind was howling,
but we enjoyed our location in the stone vaulted restaurant.
Here we sampled a fusion of North African & Middle Eastern food in a very tranquil setting. Babaganoush, breuats de ternera, lamb milojia & finishing off the meal with baklava and Moroccan mint tea. The food was reasonably priced, as was the wine but the main courses didn’t make our hearts sing unfortunately.
Feeling nourished we made our way along the city walls, passing the Arco de Sancho IV.
Along the Paseo de Corredera whilst enjoying the views over the valley below, before returning to our car and home.
