Picos de Europa National Park in the Cantabrian Mountains

Tuesday 5th June 2018

As we knew today was probably going to be our last in the Picos de Europa we were enthusiastic to make the most of the limited time available and the best of the weather.

On our way into Potes yesterday, we had passed by an impressive building, named the Centro de visitants Sotama, so we headed back to investigate.

Picos Europa National Park
Picos de Europa visitors centre

We were aware of more visitors to Potes today as we passed through, owing we guessed to the improved weather conditions. The large car park, where the bus station is located was particularly full; as were several of the side roads and the streets were busy with people.

Potes is definitely geared up for the busy tourist market and along its maze of back alleyways and arcades along the main street are numerous shops, bars and cafés selling all things local, including , woven baskets, handmade wooden clogs, as well  as many local blue cheeses, cider and the fiery liquor known as Orujo. A weekly market still takes place in the town on Mondays, with all manner of local produce.

We parked directly outside the visitors centre and entrance to the  centre was free. The main exhibition areas were fantastic and had captions in English, which helped us to make the most of the detailed information. There were also some a couple of audiovisual displays available in English which were particularly informative about the people who inhabit the Picos and how they have worked and lived in this area, past and present.

Picos Europa National Park
Scale model of traditional housing Picos de Europa based on a simple ground plan and built with two kinds of stone.

Surprisingly we were only a handful of people at the centre. The actual building was huge and apart from the fantastic exhibition area downstairs, the rest of the building seemed devoid of anything apart from a stunning 3D glass relief map of the Picos. Nevertheless we enjoyed our short visit.

Whilst in the visitors centre we had enjoyed some spectacular views out towards the national park of the Picos de Europa and decided to take one of the smaller roads up to investigate.

Picos Europa National Park

Ray enjoyed the steep, hilly, narrow roads as they twisted and turned their way towards the village of Viñon and we stopped a few times to enjoy the landscape, the tiny hamlets dotted on the hillside and the sounds of cow bells echoing in the distance.

Picos Europa National Park
Drive up to Viñon

Our journey came to an abrupt end as we reached the end of this tiny village and the narrow road we had been on became even narrower.

Picos Europa National Park Vinön
Viñon

A quick 7 point turn and we made our way back down to the main N-621 😉

Picos Europa National Park
Narrow street of Viñon

As the weather was so good, we decided to head back through Potes and drive up to Fuente Dé, where a cable car operates up to the heart of the Picos de Europa.

Our journey began in bright sun with balmy temperatures of 16 degrees but as we continued, the clouds moved in, as did heavy downpours and the temperature plummeted to 8 degrees!

Picos Europa National Park
Drive to Fuente Dé

We passed a few motor bikers who were making the descent in the opposite direction in the pouring rain! For Ray it brought back memories of similar conditions on several of his motorcycle trips in the past and he knew how they felt 😉

On reaching Fuente Dé we remained in the car for quite a while as the rain subsided and felt sorry for the few people who had braved the cable car to make the short 4 minute journey up to the 1823 metre peak.

Picos Europa National Park
Cable car in the drizzle

At €16 each return, it was definitely not going to be an experience we would take and certainly not in these conditions, but at least we had made the visit.

As we headed back down through the Picos the weather began to pick up again and as we approached Potes it was good enough to make a very short detour to the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana, a major Catholic pilgrimage site.

Picos Europa National Park
Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana
Picos Europa National Park
Side of monastery

Although the monastery was closed when we visited, we were able to admire its exterior and the commanding views it had over the land below down to Potes.

Picos Europa National Park

Much to Ray’s surprise I suggested that we head back to Fuente Dé as the weather was looking promising, according to the webcam at the summit.

We were rather glad that we did, as the drive was magnificent, as was the return visit to the cable car.

Picos Europa National Park
Drive back to Fuente De
Picos Europa National Park
Fuente Dé
Picos Europa National Park
Cable cars

It was hard not to fall in love with this area of Spain, despite its remoteness. The landscape, the traditional villages and the endless views had all been much more than we had anticipated and were stunning.

Picos Europa National Park
Hillside village of Olalle
Picos Europa National Park
Traditional house
Picos Europa National Park
Poblado Tama, Picos de Europa

It was just a pity for us that the weather in this micro climate had not been favourable on this occasion but that has not put us off and according to our host at the campsite, after the August tourist trade has left, September is a fantastic time of year to visit.

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