Sunday 10th March 2019
Our campsite El Sur is situated on the outskirts of the town of Ronda, surrounded by beautiful views of the landscape, National Parks and the Serranía de Ronda, in the heart of the Malaga Province. It is one of the most peaceful and picturesque areas of Spain to visit, in our humble opinion.
From our campsite we headed north around Ronda and headed off on the A-374 signposted to Seville. The main roads in this area are wonderful and offer spectacular views.
We saw many groups of motorcyclists as they too were enjoying the weather and the road conditions, sweeping curves and climbs.
After about 22 kms we took the MA roads towards Grazamela. The road was relatively quiet and as we made our way through the vast National Park of the Sierra de Grazamela it began to narrow and twist and turn its way towards our first white Andalucían village.
Much of the drive through the National Park was along shaded well made roads and we paused before taking the final sweeping climb up towards Grazamela to admire the scenery.
We saw people rock climbing and an array of eagles soaring on the thermals high above our heads.
Just before entering the village we parked up in a designated parking area opposite the small church of Ermita de la Virgen de Los Angeles. From here we could look across the valley up to Grazamela.
From here you can follow the main road into the village or head down to the Calle de Los Angeles and climb back up. We took the main road in and the other option on our way back.
The walk wasn’t too strenuous and we were glad that we had taken it but if you prefer to park up in the village, there is a small car park located on main road as you exit the town or if you are very lucky you might even find a space close to the main square, the Plaza de España.
On the day we visited, Sunday, the village was particularly busy with Spanish visitors and weekend motorcyclists, most of whom were enjoying a spot of eating, drinking or family time in the sun in the central square, lined with bars and restaurants.
As there is only one main, relatively narrow road through the village and it was rather busy, a policeman was posted in this area to ensure traffic continued on its way through the town and did not park up on the kerbs.
The village was delightful, with steep cobbled streets lined by white washed houses with typical wrought iron rejas on the windows, beautiful wooden doors and plant pots spilling over with foliage.
There were several great viewpoint areas to admire the verdant landscape below, as well as the limestone peaks and the bird life above.
We have since read that this area of Spain is so green, due to the vast amount of rainfall it receives.
We descended to the Calle de Los Angeles to make our way back to the car passing the old local Lavadero público, where the women of the village would have taken the laundry, pre the invention of the washing machine.
Back in the car we drove through the village and up out towards our next destination, the lookout known as Puerto de las Palomas on the CA-9104.
After a steady climb of about 2 kms we reached the viewpoint area. A further climb on foot to the viewing platform afforded stunning views of the vertical wall valleys, like the Garganta Verde and further views of the winding road we were going to take next.
Above our heads were several eagles enjoying the thermals and at one point one flew directly overhead to plunge down the valley on the opposite side!
Our journey then continued on the CA-9104 towards Zahara de la Sierra. The road twisted its way down the mountains, through hairpin bends, where we could look back up to the viewpoint area and down to the large man-made lake near Zahara de la Sierra.
Although we didn’t head up into Zahara de la Sierra we certainly enjoyed the views up to the village perched on the mountain side and the viewpoint area was a great place to do this.
The main street around the base of the village was planted with gorgeous flowering almond trees, which were in full bloom.
As we left the village we passed over the dam of the lake and climbed up out of the valley and made our way to the last village of the day, Setenil de las Bodegas.
The final leg of this part of the journey began on the A-384 passing Algondales and Olvera, before heading south along superb, narrow CA roads with fantastic views all around. In the distance you can see small white villages dotted on the hillside, miles from any other!
The village of Setenil de las Bodegas enjoys an interesting position along a narrow river gorge. The town extends along the course of the Rio Trejo with some houses being built into the rock walls of the gorge itself, created by enlarging natural caves or overhangs and adding an external wall.
On another occasion, when not so late in the day we would definitely take a closer look at this village.