All posts by Kim

To the Causeway Coast

Thursday 14th September 2017

After a dull day yesterday, we packed up the caravan and, heading to the Causeway Coast, left County Fermanagh to head towards Co Londonderry and Co Antrim, taking in Co Tyrone, on our way. We took A46 to Ballyshannon and then N15 to Donegal.

On reaching Donegal, we turned east, continuing on N15, and steadily climbed to Barnesmore Gap in the Bluestack Mountains. As we approachedLondonderry, we began to follow the River Foyle, which was quite a wide river.

Often navigating large cities can be problematic, but we made our way safely and quickly through Derry/Londonderry. The view of the city across the river was lovely. As we made our way out of the city we caught a glimpse of the imposing Peace bridge spanning the river. Very picturesque.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 154 – Cumulative: 1,886

We were now on the Causeway coastal route and making our way to our destination Portrush. By the time we arrived at our campsite, Carrick Dhu, the wind had really picked up and the rain arrived, making it very unpleasant setting up.

The warden paid us a visit and was very chatty and helpful, giving us plenty of information about the facilities and the immediate area, as well as some literature to mull over later.

The site was in reality much larger than we had anticipated. The touring caravan section was located in the middle of a huge number of static holiday homes, but because of the time of year was very quiet. The facilities, including the shower block were spotless too.

As the evening began to draw in we decided to wrap up and venture out for something to eat. We didn’t have to go far, which was lucky, as the weather was ‘dreek’. We came across a restaurant, The Tides.

We were shown to the first floor to a table with lovely views out to sea, despite the lashing rain on the windows! The menu was extensive and very good value. 3 courses for the price of your main. If you can’t manage all 3 courses, you can swap one for a small glass of wine, beer or a soft drink. If that wasn’t enough, there were also 3 daily special starters and mains too! The staff were polite and attentive and we had a thoroughly enjoyable meal. A great end to the day.

Giant’s Causeway

Friday 15th September

When on the Causeway Coast, The Giant’s Causeway is a must. It is Northern Ireland’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the National Trust, so our membership cards will come in handy today. The weather was forecast to be better today, so we had to take advantage of that. As we made our way out of Portrush on A2, we passed Royal Portrush Golf Club and it did look so inviting, but at £180 per person per round, we will be giving it a miss this time. We stopped at Whiterocks Coastal Park to take in the views of the lovely sandy beach and watch a few golfers battling the rather windy links conditions.

As we continued along the Causeway Coastal route, we caught sight of Dunluce Castle, after which, the road is named. It is considered one of the most romantic and picturesque of Irish Castles. (As well as one of the film locations for Game of Thrones). The current ruins date mainly from 16th and 17th centuries.

We journeyed on until we reached the village of Bushmills,  where we knew we would be able to take the park and ride to the Giant’s Causeway. (Although the village is probably more famous for the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery). The car park was free and the buses run every 20 minutes to the Giant’s Causeway, so we didn’t have long to wait. The short 5 minute trip was worthwhile, as the car park was full of tour buses, and cars were being directed back to the park and ride.

The visitor’s centre was amazing but absolutely heaving! It was a very striking building, with walls of glass, basalt columns and a state of the art interior, with apparently no right angles. Getting our tickets was a piece of cake and we had the option of taking an outdoor audio guide or joining a guided tour.

We chose the latter, which meant we would be walking down to the Causeway. (There are buses which ferry people to and from at a cost of £1, FOC if you are a NT member). We had the added bonus of our guide’s sense of humour, and well tailored patter about the geology, legend and folklore of this true spectacle. Now all those retellings of Finn McCool at school would be brought to life!

The guided tour lasted approximately an hour and then we were able to explore the area on our own, for as long as we wished. We decided to continue along one of the 4 trails advertised, along a path and up the cliffs to The Amphitheatre. From here we gained a different perspective of the Causeway and Port Noffer. Once we had made our way back down, we did what most people come to do – clamber over the hexagonal basalt rocks to marvel at this wonder. Owing to recent heavy rain, some areas were out of bounds, but it didn’t make a lot of difference as there were many places to climb, sit and ponder at it’s beauty.

Having taken loads of photos, we made our way back to the visitor centre. Here were many exhibition areas to explore and enjoy the science and stories, including a big screen. There was of  course, the obligatory cafe and shop. A short wait for the park and ride and we were back in Bushmills.

We wandered off to find the Bushmills Railway, which follows the two mile extension of the original Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Hydro Electric Tram Track, but it is only open at the weekends in September! Always good to do your homework first.

We did make our way over to the ‘Dark Hedges‘,  a tunnel-like avenue of inter-twinned beech trees, planted in the 18th century, but we were somewhat disappointed.  Owing to Games of Thrones series, there were too many people dressed in capes, welding swords, re-enacting scenes from the television series and large tourists coaches parked along the road, obscuring any possible view. We will add this to our future wish list, out of season.

Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge

Saturday 16th September

The weather was due to change around 11 o’clock so we knew we had to be up early to avoid the crowds and the rain, if we were to make the most of Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge experience. A National Trust location, meant our membership cards were useful again. We arrived at the location in Ballintoy, which was only a short journey along the Causeway Coastal route. A new timed ticket system is now in operation, and for the moment is not bookable online. Your ticket has an hour window in which to reach the bridge. Once on the island, you are welcome to spend as much time as you like there.

From the kiosk where you purchase your tickets, it is a 1 km walk to the rope bridge and over to Carrick Island. There are some steep steps down and back on the journey, so be prepared. Along the walk are some super views out to sea over Larrybane Bay and Sheep Island, as well as Rathlin Island. If you’re lucky you might even spot some basking sharks, dolphins or porpoises.

Ray took the challenge first, although for him it didn’t pose a problem. For me it was a lot more daunting. The metal steps down to the rope bridge were fairly steep and when the wind is whistling, you need to hold on to the handrails. A steward is located at the top of the stairs here and another on the other side of the bridge. Not that made me any less nervous. A limited number of people are allowed on the bridge at any one time.

The Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge is 20 metres long and is 30 metres above the rocks below. (If you look back through archive footage, you find it hard to believe that for 350 years, salmon fisherman, made this trip across to the island on far flimsier attempts at a rope bridge).   I didn’t even notice there were rocks below! My eyes were firmly fixed on the steward on the other side! I must admit it was exhilarating to make it to the other side.

After some time taking in the views from the island we queued to make the journey back across the bridge. This wasn’t quite so scary but had to be done to get back to the car park! I would have been okay, apart from some bright spark who thought it would be fun to bounce up and down behind me! He soon realised if he didn’t stop I wasn’t going anywhere!

Unfortunately, due to the rain, the coastal walk wasn’t possible so we made our way back to the car.

We did it!