Monday 6th November 2017
Today was to be another moving on day. The planned trip was into Spain, 332km from Les Peupliers down to Campsite Vilanova Park, about 35km WSW of Barcelona. Continue reading Into Spain
Category Archives: France
Our last day in Languedoc-Roussillon (Occitanie)
Sunday 5th November 2017
The weather was definitely beginning to show signs of change and the swallows around us too were becoming restless.
The daylight hours had got shorter and the temperature was beginning to fall, rather more rapidly than we had hoped.
Time to move on and follow that late summer warmth further south.
Having made the decision to head towards Spain, we decided to take a last trip out in the car to visit a few of the surrounding villages of Languedoc-Roussillon.
One of the places was a small village on the Canal du Midi, Le Somail.
We would have loved to cycle there, but 27 kms and an estimated 1hr 17 mins there and the same back, didn’t sound quite so appealing 🙂
Our drive from the campsite took us along the main D11/D5 road; one which had become very familiar to us and was a delight to use.
Avenues
What made the road lovely were avenues of old plane trees as well as an abundance of vines, in a variety of autumnal hues.
Vineyards on D5 near Capstang
Taking the D607 south after the village of Cabezac, led us to Le Somail. What a charming sight it was.
View through the archway in the bridge.
Once parked up we walked towards the stone bridge and the old chapel. It was just as the tourist information had described. Picture postcard!
Le Somail Stone Bridge
As we walked over the bridge we paused to read a plaque about Thomas Jefferson and his links with France.
Le Somail Bridge
We imagined that during the summer season this little port would be a vibrant hive of activity. There were several restaurants and boat hire companies along the cobbled banks, as well as a delightful hotel, closed for the season, overlooking the canal. (Other hotels are available).
Luckily for us, we were able to enjoy the serenity and peacefulness of this little port, almost entirely on our own!
Bookshop
Another major attraction is a world renowned antique bookshop , Le Trouvre tout du livre located in Le Somail. Well worth a visit when open 🙂
Back in the car we retraced our journey back as far as Capestang. Then turning south we headed towards Poilhes.Â
Poilhes Bridge
Poilhes is in the HĂ©rault department in the Occitanie region.
Next we drove back towards Colombiers to enjoy the views from the hill of EnsĂ©rune, of  L’Étang de Montady.
Étang de Montady
On our Google Maps we could quite clearly make out a pattern resembling rays of sun but containing water.
It is described as a masterpiece of hydro-agricultural engineering designed in the Middle Ages. Quite spectacular 🙂
Finally we took the opportunity to walk down to the Malpas Tunnel.
It was excavated in 1679 under the hill d’EnsĂ©rune, allowing the passage of the Canal du Midi. It is 165 kms long and Europe’s first navigable canal tunnel.
Malpas Tunnel
Situated on the south side of the canal is L’Office de Tourisme de La Domitienne La Maison du Malpas. Well worth a visit if time allows.
Malpas Tunnel
Happy memories of our time spent in Colombiers.
City of Carcassonne
Thursday 2nd November 2017
On our list of places to visit had always been Carcassonne. Yet again another UNESCO World Heritage site. We had read that it had taken over 1000 years to complete!
In 1849 the city of Carcassonne was nearly demolished. It was struck off the roster of official fortifications under Napoleon and the Restoration. This caused such uproar from the local citizens that a campaign was organised to to preserve it. The architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc was commissioned to renovate the entire city.
We parked close to the city walls in what turned out to be a very expensive car park! So be warned, check out the prices before you make your decision.
We followed the signs for the citadel, known as La CitĂ©, but our target was not hard to spot. It stands proud on the top a hill and it’s sheer scale is absolutely immense!
Carcassonne
Our walk up to the city walls was a steep one and the closer we got to the outer walls, the more gargantuan this medieval fortress appeared.
Carcassonne Lists, the area between Inner & Outer Walls
We entered Carcassonne on the west side but there are better ways to make the most of your visit. (We wish we had read the website above in hindsight).
Climbing Toward The Ramparts
Carcassonne is apparently the 2nd most popular visitor attraction in France, after the Eiffel Tower and that soon became very apparent as we made our way around the citadel. (Heaven knows what the place must be like in the height of the tourist season!!!!)
City of Carcassonne Walkway
The Château Comptal
Unfortunately our view and enjoyment of the amazing architecture within the city was masked by the vast amount of restaurants, peddling cassoulet, a local dish, and tacky tourist shops selling anything and everything!
Attractive Climbing Plant
We were surprised to find out that there are many permanent residences as well as a few hotels within the walls.
Can’t beat a Best Western
We both concurred that this resembled a ‘Petworth meets Disneyworld’. Such a disappointment. Even our efforts to join the lengthy queue to visit the Château and ramparts were thwarted. We gave up and walked away before we lost the will to live.
Feeling a little deflated we headed off to the Pont Vieux over the River Aude and crossed over to the modern city. From the top of the bridge we were able to admire the citadel in peace and quiet from a distance.
A gentle walk along the river and back over a smaller bridge led to the car park and home.
We would re-visit given the chance. Out of season, if there is one, and taking in the ramparts and the ‘Lists‘ the gap between the two sets of walls.
Fonsérannes Locks on the Canal du Midi
Wednesday 1st November 2017
Today, as we discovered, was Las Toussaints or All Saint’s Day. It is a public holiday across France. We decided to visit Beziers and the FonsĂ©rannes Locks on the Canal du Midi.
During our travels we had been aware of many shops and florists displaying large potted chrysanthemums in their windows and on the pavements . Now we know why.
Chrysanthemums are the traditional flowers placed on the graves of loved ones, during this time of remembrance.
Cemetery in Colombiers.
Westward to BĂ©ziers
Tuesday 31st October 2017
We had enjoyed our stay at Flower Camping La Beaume near Esparron -de-Verdon for 9 nights but it was closing for the year so we had to move on. We decided to move westward to Beziers .
Our Camping Card had been given to another camper by mistake when we were at La Neptune recently, but had now been returned. We decided to return there for one night to pick up the card before heading west towards Spain. So yesterday we made the short trip back there and set up for the night.
Today we set off around 10:30 heading westward to Beziers, staying at Camping Les Peupliers in Colombiers in the Hérault region of France.
30 & 31.10.17 Route
Towing Kilometres – Today: 328 – Cumulative: 4,478
The village is on the Canal du Midi. We chose to pay a toll and used the autoroute to travel the 200km. We were delayed for about 30 minutes due to an incident, but made the campground, fortunately, in good time. We were greeted by a very pleasant receptionist. We chose our pitch and setup with the intention of staying 4 or 5 nights. Within two hours the site was almost full with arriving motorhomes who appear to use the site as a stopover.
We intend to use this site as a base to visit BĂ©ziers, Carcassonne and Canal du Midi before moving south to find warmer weather.