The plan today was to drive along the south side of The Verdon Gorges, lunch at Castellane, and return to camp by the north side road, the D952. I had ridden these roads , and visited Castellane, on my motorcycle three times in the past and the area never fails to amaze me and I was sure Kim would be impressed. The added dimension of the autumnal colours would also add to the experience.
The Verdon Gorges
The plan was working well until we came across a ‘Route Barrée’ sign on the south side road, the D71. Big disappointment, as I think the views are better from south. The road is closed until mid December. I took this picture before retracing our steps to take the north side road.
Village View
Progress toward Castellane was slow as it seemed after every corner Kim was asking to stop for a picture opportunity. This was exactly how I felt when my son Paul & I visited on our motorcycles in 2008. I’ll try to let the pictures explain the magic.
Gorge Views
Gorge Views
Gorge Views
Verdon Gorges Autumnal Colours
Verdon Gorges Views
Verdon Gorges Rock Arch
Gorge – View Down
This is a place where the pictures often do not do the view justice.
We finally approached Castellane, with it’s landmark church, The Notre-Dame du Roc towering overhead.
Castellane
We had a rather late lunch, then wandered about the town square before seeking out the La Poste to send our cards.
Castellane Post Office & Hilltop Church
We drove back to camp along the north side road as the sun was going down.
We were reliably informed by the owners daughter, who spoke impeccable English, that there would be a local festival in the town today, celebrating ‘squashes’. Hooray I hear you say.
Le Courge en Fete Esparron-de-Verdon
When we approached the town yesterday, we were aware of a number of pumpkin decorations throughout the town. We had wrongly thought that these probably related to Halloween.
When in Esparron-de-Verdon………. what else could we do but give it our attention. The fête was on for most of the day, so we saddled up and rode into town around lunch time.
The weather was delightfully sunny, but incredibly windy, which didn’t make it easy to cycle.
Front of the Chateau we pass on our way into the village.
View of the Chateau from the village.
Our impressions of Esparron were already good and the journey through yesterday had confirmed one of our thoughts of what an ideal provincial town in France would be like.
Esparron-de-Verdon
Picturesque houses, a cháteau, some bars and restaurants, all situated on the edge of a lake, with turquoise coloured water. What not to like!
There are a wealth of water sports in Esparron
The fête was just like most English village fetes but with added sun and that je ne sais quoi!
There was a variety of stalls in the main part of the village. Tables were laid out with all manner of produce squash related. You could buy fresh squashes, jams, chutneys or hand made decorations which depicted squashes.
An array of squashes
The rest of the tarte was delightful! Only had one slice really.
There was even a monsieur who spent the entire time carving squashes with very intricate patterns and decoration. He had a lot more patience than I would have done!
Squash Carving
But the highlight of the day, for us, was when the band arrived and began to entertain the crowds, who were now beginning to swell. (Well just a bit).
Welcome Fanfare Pêna Sunrise!
They were fantastic, full of energy and certainly did not disappoint.
We lingered for some considerable time to listen to several renditions.
All the right notes but not necessarily in the right order but played with enthusiasm and gusto! Bravo!
After a pause for ‘beer o’clock’ , clutching our handmade pumpkin ceramic, we headed back through the village and up the hill home.
A fantastic start to our time in Esparron-de-Verdon.
Everyday, at totally random times, since we have been at Camping Lou Vincen, we have had the chance to watch the firefighting water bombers refill their tanks by skimming down the Rhône river running alongside camp, The Daily Bombardier 415 show. 🙂
Bombardier 415 banking to start fill run
Filling from the river
Almost Full!
Climbing Away
The aircraft are Bombardier 415s. It is quite an impressive sight as the aircraft have to do some quite steep turns to position themselves for their run as there are a lot of power cables in the area.
Once in position the aircraft skims down the river and it is possible to hear the water rushing in.
At the end of the run the now very heavy aircraft slowly climbs as the excess water is ejected.
It is quite a show, and the sound of the aircraft coming overhead has campers rushing for their cameras every time.
If you enjoy walking and getting away from it all, there are nine glens along the Antrim coast road, with woods, waterfalls, riverside paths, viewpoints and forest parks to enjoy. Our choice was Glenariff Forest Park (the fertile glen), as it boasted a unique waterfall walkway.
We set off from Ballintoy on the coastal route and hadn’t gone far when we spotted a viewing point, Portaneevey. We pulled into the car park and were rewarded with a great view back to Carrick-a-Rede bridge, Rathlin Island and in the far distance, Mull of Kintyre.
We now had a choice, continue on the main coastal A2 route, or divert onto the Torr Scenic Route and follow the coast to Cushendun. We took the scenic route but knowing what we know now, I would definitely recommend that you think seriously before embarking on this route and read the web page InSite Tours Ireland
To say the drive was exhilarating was an understatement. I’m just glad that it was Ray driving. As well as the very narrow, winding roads, meeting a Dutch motorhome in the opposite direction was interesting, as was the numerous cars heading towards us at great speed, to a wedding venue which we had just past.
We were somewhat relieved when we finally saw the sweeping beach of Cushendun and the quaint row of Cornish-style cottages it is well known for. We pulled into the harbour area and were welcomed by a sculpture of Johann the goat, a larger than life past inhabitant of the village.
Johann the Goat
The village is now owned by the National Trust and boasts the Cushendun Caves which were used for one of the scenes of Game of Thrones.
Cushendun Village
Our next stop was Glenariff Forest Park. Today the car park charge had been waived, but we appeared to be one of only a handful of cars in the park? Maybe our expectations of this wonderful waterfall were misguided, although by now the rain was beginning to come down more steadily. (Perhaps that was the clue).
Not to be put off, we brought out the umbrellas and headed off on the waterfall trail. Yes it was cold. Yes it was a little wet underfoot and overhead, but as we made our way down through the forest gorge, we could hear the sound of rushing, pounding water.
Our final approach down some steps took us to a boardwalk and our first sight of a waterfall. We were definitely not disappointed. The waterfall was all the more spectacular, for the additional rainfall Ireland had been experiencing lately! The damp conditions in the river gorge is obviously an ideal environment for many exotic looking plants, which only add to the experience.
We felt like royalty. We didn’t encounter another sole as we followed the board walk and the river down to Manor Lodge restaurant, half way round the walk. As you reach this point, there is also another smaller, but lovely waterfall to admire.
The return to the car park, tea house and craft shop, was up a steep forestry track, which certainly tests your lung capacity! There are some well situated benches along the track, should you need to pause for a while, and when the weather allows, ideal spots to take in the lovely views. At times we were nearly climbing into the clouds!
Reaching the car park was a relief by now, as the waterproof jackets were creating a sauna effect for both of us! Maybe on a future visit we will get to enjoy the other trails in Glenariff Nature Reserve.
The weather was due to change around 11 o’clock so we knew we had to be up early to avoid the crowds and the rain, if we were to make the most of Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge experience. A National Trust location, meant our membership cards were useful again. We arrived at the location in Ballintoy, which was only a short journey along the Causeway Coastal route. A new timed ticket system is now in operation, and for the moment is not bookable online. Your ticket has an hour window in which to reach the bridge. Once on the island, you are welcome to spend as much time as you like there.
From the kiosk where you purchase your tickets, it is a 1 km walk to the rope bridge and over to Carrick Island. There are some steep steps down and back on the journey, so be prepared. Along the walk are some super views out to sea over Larrybane Bay and Sheep Island, as well as Rathlin Island. If you’re lucky you might even spot some basking sharks, dolphins or porpoises.
Ray took the challenge first, although for him it didn’t pose a problem. For me it was a lot more daunting. The metal steps down to the rope bridge were fairly steep and when the wind is whistling, you need to hold on to the handrails. A steward is located at the top of the stairs here and another on the other side of the bridge. Not that made me any less nervous. A limited number of people are allowed on the bridge at any one time.
The Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge is 20 metres long and is 30 metres above the rocks below. (If you look back through archive footage, you find it hard to believe that for 350 years, salmon fisherman, made this trip across to the island on far flimsier attempts at a rope bridge). I didn’t even notice there were rocks below! My eyes were firmly fixed on the steward on the other side! I must admit it was exhilarating to make it to the other side.
After some time taking in the views from the island we queued to make the journey back across the bridge. This wasn’t quite so scary but had to be done to get back to the car park! I would have been okay, apart from some bright spark who thought it would be fun to bounce up and down behind me! He soon realised if he didn’t stop I wasn’t going anywhere!
Unfortunately, due to the rain, the coastal walk wasn’t possible so we made our way back to the car.
We did it!
Certificate Of Success
A Diary Of Our Caravan Tour Around Europe
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