Marseille addendum

Post contains a graphic image that may revolt you!

After publishing my Marseille visit post, Kim reminded me that I had forgotten something, so correcting that here in this addendum.

While researching what to see and do in Marseille we came across, on TripAdvisor, reports of an artisan glacier that created black vanilla ice-cream. We located the place via Google Maps and made our way to Glacier Vanilla Noire.

We both had a cone of the black ice-cream, and very tasty it was too!

There is one unfortunate after effect though;

Sorry! 🙂

2nd FĂȘte de la Courge at Esparron-de-Verdon

Sunday 22nd October 2017

We were reliably informed by the owners daughter, who spoke impeccable English, that there would be a local festival in the town today, celebrating ‘squashes’. Hooray I hear you say.

When we approached the town yesterday, we were aware of a number of pumpkin decorations throughout the town. We had wrongly thought that these probably related to Halloween.

When in Esparron-de-Verdon………. what else could we do but give it our attention. The fĂȘte was on for most of the day, so we saddled up and rode into town around lunch time.

The weather was delightfully sunny, but incredibly windy, which didn’t make it easy to cycle.

Our impressions of Esparron were already good and the journey through yesterday had confirmed one of our thoughts of what an ideal provincial town in France would be like.

Picturesque houses, a chĂĄteau, some bars and restaurants, all situated on the edge of a lake, with turquoise coloured water. What not to like!

The fĂȘte  was just like most English village fetes but with added sun and that je ne sais quoi!

There was a variety of stalls in the main part of the village. Tables were laid out with all manner of produce squash related. You could buy fresh squashes, jams, chutneys or hand made decorations which depicted squashes.

There was even a monsieur who spent the entire time carving squashes with very intricate patterns and decoration. He had a lot more patience than I would have done!

But the highlight of the day, for us, was when the band arrived and began to entertain the crowds, who were now beginning to swell. (Well just a bit).


Welcome Fanfare PĂȘna Sunrise!

They were fantastic, full of energy and certainly did not disappoint.

We lingered for some considerable time to listen to several renditions.

All the right notes but not necessarily in the right order but played with enthusiasm and gusto! Bravo!

After a pause for ‘beer o’clock’ , clutching our handmade pumpkin ceramic, we headed back through the village and up the hill home.

A fantastic start to our time in Esparron-de-Verdon.

To The Verdon Gorges

Saturday 21st October 2017

We moved on today to Flower Camping La Beaume, near the beautiful village of Esparron-de-Verdon. The village is located in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region. This was to be our base for visiting the Verdon Gorges.

Towing Kilometres – Today: 130 – Cumulative: 4,150

In an effort to make the transfer as calm as possible, I invested in a GPS app for iPhone, CoPilot. This enables you to enter the dimensions and weight of your caravan and it purports to keep you away from caravan unfriendly places. By & large, for this 115km move, it worked. No silences, no Scrabble defeat!

Only thing to note about the drive, apart from the mountains starting to appear on the horizon, was this amazing avenue of mature trees shot on Kim’s phone through the windscreen.

On arrival at the site, down a very steep slope, we were met by the enthusiastic and friendly owner who directed us to our pitch.
He showed us the facilities and wonderful pool and although he doesn’t speak any English he made us feel more than welcome.

The facilities on site are acceptable and clean and I think this will be a very comfortable place to stay while we investigate the Verdon Gorges. 🙂

Surprise Soirée

Friday 20th October 2017

A ride out on our bikes today didn’t take us far. Massane is located on the western side of Etang de Berre and our campsite was in a residential area with one main road.

We attempted a ride off the beaten track, in the vain hope of following the edge of the lake but it came to a dead end. Although we did pass a nice looking pizzeria, which we thought we might check out later.

We then headed off out of Massane towards the south, but soon realised that the uphill trek was only going to get tougher and there wasn’t much to see either.

Luckily the journey back was downhill most of the way, which meant a quick return to the campsite.

We decided to take the car and head out to check out one of the villages situated on the south coast, which we had passed on our train journey yesterday to Marseille.

Sausset-les-Pins is a pretty seaside resort along the CĂŽte Bleue. Our descent into the village was through delightful pine forests and Sausset-les-Pins was much larger than our perspective on the train had led us to believe.

We parked up on Avenue du Général Leclerc opposite the main beach, Plage de la Corniche. It extends for over 600 meters and is mainly made up of gravel, with some sandbanks.

The promenade along the coastline was lovely and it was possible to walk in either direction for quite some time, taking in the delights of the sea and the warmth of the sun.

The port of Sausset was delightful; full of numerous sailing vessels, and edged with a range of cafĂ©s and bars. We wandered slowly around the water’s edge, passing the area where the fisherman sell their ‘catch of the day’ and headed around the other side of the port.

We arrived at the smaller pebbled Plage du Port. The tide was on the turn and the waves were crashing on the rocky shore. Delightful!

Back at the campsite, Ray decided to ride out to the pizzeria to see if it was open, despite the fact our campsite host LĂ©o informing us that it had closed at the end of September.

Ray returned tout suite and confirmed it was open and appeared quite busy, so we got our skates on!

As we approached the restaurant, Le Macciana,  the sound of music resonated all around and the place looked lively and inviting. Wood burners and outdoor heaters lit up the venue.

As we headed towards the entrance we suddenly had a thought. Perhaps LĂ©o our host was correct; it was closed and this was a private function!

Oh well, we had got this far, what was the worst that could happen? A quiet walk back to the caravan and throw something together for supper!

We were greeted by the owner, who welcomed us and immediately proceeded to show us to a table for two and explained that tonight was a buffet â‚Ź20 each. Job done!

The restaurant was very attractive and dining was on the outdoor terrace. It had an instant warm feeling.

I say warm for two reasons. One for the welcome and the setting but two, for the array of outdoor heaters strategically placed around the terrace!

Luckily for us, our host found us a table on the edge of the terrace. We left the locals to enjoy the warmth, as it was obvious that they were feeling the ‘cool’ evening air, more than we were!

The evening did not disappoint and we enjoyed the variety of local dishes, along with some delightful  Provence Chardonnay and musical accompaniment by the owners son.

Our host was fantastic. He came to check on us throughout the evening and apologised for his lack of English!

We discovered that his son, who worked for BP,  was married to an English girl and they lived in Walton on Thames! A place which he enjoyed visiting.

We left late in the evening, thanking our host and his family for a superb evening and delicious meal. We would definitely be back.

Trip to Marseille

Thursday 19th October 2017

Armed with the tickets we sourced the previous day we set off to Istres station to get the train down to Marseille, the second largest city in France. On arrival at the station, the door was firmly locked and notices posted that it was due to the strike. Luckily we noticed a local gent squeezing through a side gate onto the platform and we followed with minutes to spare for our train arrival. The train ride was smooth and, in places, had some excellent views over small towns next to the Mediterranean Sea. We arrived at Marseille-Saint-Charles station and made our way down to the Old Port, one of the things we had decided to see on our short visit.

Within minutes of leaving the station we witnessed a fist fight between a shop worker and an irate chap outside a phone shop. Making our way to the port we passed piles of rubbish in the streets. Very soon after about four or five police vehicles streamed past and surrounded another store. Not a good start to our big city visit. On reaching the Old Port the atmosphere changed and we stopped for a lovely lunch and a beer before wandering past the Town Hall to find the Petit Train.

We boarded the Petit Train to travel up to the Notre-Dame de la Garde, the city’s best-known symbol.

Notre-Dame de la Garde is a Roman Catholic basilica, completed in 1864. It towers over the city and can be seen for miles at around. The interior is stunning.

There are views of all the city from outside the basilica including the old & new ports.

After a brief 25 minute tour we hurried back to join the fun train back down to the city.

We made our way back to the station for the return rail trip to Istres. As the ride progressed it grew steadily darker and we watched a large cruise liner slowly drift off into the Mediterranean as night fell.

Marseille brought home to us that we are not really big city fans. You can only ever brush the surface of what there is to see, and quite often you get to see and feel the darker side of the city in the surrounding streets. I don’t think we’ll be rushing back.