Priego de Córdoba on the edge of the Sierras Subbéticas

Saturday 23rd March 2019

Priego de Córdoba was our choice to visit today as we read it was known as the Town of Water, owing to the natural springs that flow in its surroundings. Although had it been Christmas we might have been torn as Rute was described as having the world’s biggest Chocolate Nativity Scene in the factory of Galleros Artesanos 😉

Within the province of Córdoba there are more than a few towns and villages, 75 approximately, most of which are worthy of a visit, as is the breathtaking landscape, including the Sierras  Subbéticas.

From our Villafranca de Córdoba campsite we began our trip on the N-IV through El Carpio, then south on the quiet rural CO-4201 through rolling agricultural fields, mostly of olives, as far as the eye could see past Prágdena, then onto the A-309 to the larger town of Castro del Rio. From here we hit the larger N-432 which skirted the north of the Natural Park of the Sierras Subbéticas and the town of Baena before finally making our way towards Priego de Córdoba on the A-333.

As we reached the town we could see the sheer rock face high above us where the old quarter of the town is located and could only imagine its importance in the past supporting the defence of the town from invaders.

After a short drive up into the town we located a public car park just past the Town Hall for a mere €1.50.

The tourist office is located in town hall in the pretty Plaza de Constitución and a helpful young lady furnished us with a map of the area and highlighted the places of interest.

The town was bustling with lots of people, many enjoying a drink or lunch in the many bars and restaurants lining the streets, especially Spanish families and couples.

Fuente Del Rey and Fuente De La Salud were our first stop. At the end of the Calle Del Rio we found these two fountains in a small park area.

The main fountain was unfortunately undergoing some renovation work. These fountains are considered to be the most symbolic monuments of Baroque and Neo-classical architecture, an inspired combination of water and mythology.

The town is purported to be a living example of beautiful Andalusian Baroque, particularly many of the churches.

The historic Barrio De La Villa area, the original Muslim heart of the town was delightful and we found this close to the Castillo and the Catholic Church, La Ascunción de Nuestra Señora.

The narrow alleyways of the old quarter were lovely to wander through and you could easily be transported back to times gone by. During Corpus Christi, this neighbourhood is the location for a beautiful procession which winds its way through the labyrinth of white-washed streets.

Easter or Semana Santa is a particularly important time of the year in Priego de Córdoba as it is in many other areas all over Spain. The whole town comes alive as people join in the celebrations on the streets, accompanied by floats (pasos) in a magnificent display of devotion and emotion.

The celebrations culminate on Good Friday when as many people as possible try to help carry a float with a statue of Jesus of Nazareth up the Calvario Hill, where the sculpture will bless thousands of hornazo pastries, held up the sky by these devout followers.

Priego de Córdoba is also one of ten Andalusian towns of the Caminos de Pasión, a route that enables visitors to explore the Easter Week traditions, through their heritage, gastronomy, folklore, nature, arts and crafts.

This original Muslim heart of the town finally opens out onto the Balcón Del Adarve with spectacular views of the landscape.

Although we didn’t get to see the Carnicerías Reales, originally a slaughterhouse and meat market, located near to the castle it is said to be an interesting building to visit.

The Ruta Del Califato or Route of the Caliphate runs through the Eastern region of Andalusia, linking Córdoba and Granada, crossing the Jaén province too and is made up of many different villages and towns, including Priego de Córdoba .

In the past this route was particularly important for traders and travellers and was witness to many battles, as well as playing an important role for the Catholic Kings

Our journey home took us on a different route through the Natural Park of the Sierras Subbéticas on the A-339 to Cabra and around part of the west side of the park before heading north again to join our initial route back home. Journey time approximately 1 hour 30 minutes each way.

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