Thursday 21st March 2019
Although we generally choose to take public transport when visiting cities the local bus from Villafranca to Córdoba only runs from 07.15, 08.00 and 09.30 and then again at 14.15 and 16.15, which is either a little too early or too late for us, so we opted to take the car the 21 kms and fingers crossed find a car park which we would be able to get into, as we have the top-box on the roof of the car which often limits our options.
We had the pleasure of the company of our neighbour Michael, who hails from Denmark but lives in Singapore, which made a change from the norm. We had enjoyed each other’s company last night over supper and a few drinks.
Having read up that parking in Córdoba wasn’t easy we found an excellent car park right next to the Mezquita, off Calle Cairun, although the height restrictions meant it was of no use to us, but after following the signs managed to park up in the Centro Historico parking area just across the main A-431 in the city.
Córdoba, as of 2018, is not only renowned for having more UNESCO Heritage sites than anywhere in the world, 4 in total, but holds an annual Patio Festival (Courtyard Festival – Fiesta de los Patios) in May, when home owners in Córdoba’s traditional neighbourhoods invite the public to admire their beautiful courtyards packed with trees, plants, flowers, fountains and accessories. Since 2012, the Córdoba Patios have been part of the world cultural heritage.
As we made our way through the old city walls we encountered narrow streets of white-washed buildings, bedecked with window boxes, plant pots over spilling and were invited into a couple of courtyards along our route.
If this is the standard of gardens already in late March, then I can only imagine how beautiful and fragrant Córdoba must be during the month of May!
A short walk through this area of narrow streets brought us to the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos with its’ imposing high walls, next to a palmed park area.
This castle of the Christian Monarchs, or Alcázar of Córdoba is located next to the Guadalquivir River not only boasts a military fortress but magnificent, beautifully tended gardens and courtyards of Mudéjar inspiration.
The history behind this heritage site is interesting and well worth a read, as is a visit.
Access to the Alcázar is at the base of the Tower of Lions, one of two preserved towers, the other being the Tribute Tower.
These can be accessed from the ground floor corridor, where stairs lead to the wall walk connecting the two towers. You can climb the Tower of Lions and enjoy the views towards the river and the old Roman Bridge, as well as exquisite views to the Moorish courtyard and gardens below and in the distance.
A spectacularly renovated Baroque Hall of Mosaics can be reached after crossing the entrance gallery at the northern wall of the Alcázar.
Leading from the hall can be found the Royal Mudéjar Baths and access to the first garden built in Arabic times, around 822.
The old Alcázar orchard has been transformed into an area of magnificent gardens on 3 levels and is an absolute delight to wander through.
From here you can walk either along the river or the Calle Amador de los Rios to the Mezquita-Caterdral de Córdoba, the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.
We entered the Patio de los Naranjos with its Torre Campanario, the courtyard of the Mosque and purchased our tickets to visit.
This monumental sacred building is one that has undergone several transformations by different cultures and religions throughout history. Its internal structure is vast and awe inspiring and you will spend much of your time with your head skyward, admiring the amazing structural magnificence. Apart from viewing down through a glass floor cut out, revealing part of the mid 6th century original Visigoth Basilica of San Vicente.
There aren’t any words or very few pictures that can begin to describe what you will see or feel about this building, so my advice would be to add it to your bucket list. €10 is a small price to pay.
Just a short walk south around the walls of the mosque-cathedral brought us to the Triunfo de San Rafael, a towering monument dedicated to the archangel, who saved the city from an earthquake.
The Puerta Del Puente also stands proudly looking towards the Roman Bridge of Córdoba. You can walk across the bridge to the south side and the Torre de Calahorra.
Along the north side of the River Guadalquivir is a nice promenade to walk along, where you can enjoy views of the entire length of the Roman Bridge and see the original Molino de la Albolafia, which transported water to the Alcázar in the past.
After a brief look at the renowned Calleja de las Flores, one of the most popular tourist streets at an intersection of Velázquez and Bosco Streets we indulged in spot of lunch, courtesy of Michael, before saying goodbye to Córdoba for now.
